Revlon doesn't maximize a great product concept

Household & Personal Products Industry, Feb, 2008 by Suzanne Grayson

REVLON ACTED QUICKLY to preempt a key, customized, adjustable depth shading opportunity for foundations--courtesy of the adjustable valve introduced via a couple of bronzer lines in Spring '06. With all of its key competition introducing new foundations, as we speak, it's likely that Revlon will have the edge for about a year with its new Custom Creations Foundation. THEBRAND AUDIT score (88.90) is the highest published score so far, for a new product introduction in the cosmetic category. It taps into the high consumer need for "naturalness," with an adjustable depth makeup. In contrast, and for the first time, THEAUDIT score for the print ad is considerably lower than its product concept. So what happened?

THEBRANDAUDIT evaluates a product concept and its positioning strategy to provide a measurement for potential success, generally prior to the client's launch. For this column, we use print ads as the basis for the audits, as they generally execute the product positioning strategy. But since we discovered the new Revlon makeup before advertising hit in January magazines, the high THEZBRANDAUDIT score is for the product and concept alone, without the ad. In the Product, Positioning and Consumer Appeal categories, the key strong points, in addition to the news value of the adjustable depth foundation, which works beautifully, are:

* Extremely smooth, natural matte finish--virtually retexturizes the skin

* Pore minimization and

* Very long wear (almost at the ColorStay level). Yet, none of these benefits are mentioned in the ad! The product also contains SPF 15. The Competiton and Marketing Potential categories are always challenging in well-developed markets.

However, if we did have the ad at the audit time, THEBRANDAUDIT score would have been lower because the key product benefits--beyond adjustable and the reasons to stimulate trial, to want the makeup for its look and performance--are omitted. By their omission, they do not exist for the consumer. A product only comes alive, is truly born and desired, through exciting and creative persuasion of its positioning and end benefits. In addition, the always vital headline is weak in stopper value, with just "new" and the product name--no emotion or excitement and no benefit-attraction for the target market. This ad is devoted almost entirely to the adjustable feature, with little regard for readability of the body copy. In sum, the ad sells the sizzle, when it should be selling the steak.

We show both THEBRANDAUDIT score (the product and its positioning only) and theAdAudit score (print ad) in order to demonstrate the need for all ads to create dissonance with the product the consumer is currently using, in this case her existing makeup. It should also touch those consumers who have given up the search because they "can never find the right shade."

Shade selection is the single most important determinant in the purchase decision--the promise of having one that is "just right" is the sine qua non for foundation.

But the consumer only needs to consider shade selection, if she wants the makeup in the first place, based on its claims and appropriateness for her skin type and lifestyle. Here is where the ad disappoints. As noted, the product has significant advantages to stimulate interest beyond the adjustable feature, which are not realized in the ad.

More Missed Opportunities

Now, a pure marketing discussion. Custom Creations has solved a distribution challenge with just four SKUs: Light, Light/Medium, Medium, Medium/Deep. Each gives five depth choices, for a total of 20 shade options! What an inventory-conserving product, as compared to L'Oreal's True Match with 24 plus nine ethnic shades. Considering the SKU advantage, here is a lost opportunity to compete directly with L'Oreal and Cover Girl's TruBlend, both of which have skin-matching shade positions, the No. 1 consumer benefit. Just a few more shades, say four warm and four cool for a total of 12 shades (a typical range), would yield 60 shade choices! Not to mention the opportunity to do ethnic and Asian shades on a very conservative basis.

And why, when the world is mineral-crazy, didn't Revlon complete the coup with a new twist on the mineral story? It's beyond reason! Yes, yes, Revlon is introducing Color Stay Mineral Powders at the same time, but Marketing 101 dictates that each product introduction should cast the largest net possible to capture the highest trial to drive share.

There are enough different needs to satisfy many products in the category. Too bad Revlon is acting from weakness rather than the strength of yore. Custom Creations is an excellent product, with a great benefit story, in a dispensing system that is right in tune with the personalization trend. But, it's not marketed or advertised with the power it deserves. Leaves lots of room for the next guys.

Don't miss Accelerating the Future, Ingredient & Technology Conference, March 17-18, 2008. More info: www.graysonconferences.com.

SUZANNE GRAYSON

GRAYSON ASSOCIATES