Flash, dazzle and pop! Fall's color cosmetics draw inspiration straight from the fashion runways

Household & Personal Products Industry, August, 2008 by Melissa Meisel

AT THE END OF SUMMER, temperatures dip in the evening and green leaves slowly morph into shades of amber and gold. The cooling of autumn looms on the horizon. With thoughts of cozy sweaters, woolen mittens and UGG boots in the minds of seasonal shoppers, so is the desire to try some new cosmetics that complement fall fashion looks--and it shows in the numbers.

Color cosmetics reigns supreme in the prestige beauty industry with 38% of the market share--beating out the skin care and fragrance categories, according to consumer information provider The NPD Group of Port Washington, NY. In fact, two out of every five dollars spent on prestige beauty products are in the makeup category. In 2007, prestige makeup sales rose to $3.4 billion, an increase of almost half a billion dollars or 17% in the past five years, according to NPD.

"During challenging economic times in 2007, the prestige beauty industry managed to rise above the negatives," said Karen Grant, NPD senior beauty industry analyst. "Women and men are still willing to spend money on products that make them look and feel better."

The market research firm also revealed that the number of prestige lipglosses has quadrupled since 2000. Lipgloss generates nearly $200 million annually, and more than 800 new prestige eyeshadow shades have launched since 2003. Furthermore, growth in 2007 came from staple makeup products like mascara and foundation; while mineral make-up sales have increased by more than 30 times since 2003, as seen in brands like Bare Escentuals and Jane Iredale as well as mass market rollouts from Revlon and Maybelline.

In fact, total sales of the cosmetics category (face/lip/eye) were $2.56 billion in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Wal-Mart, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), a Chicago-based market research firm in a report ending May 18, 2008. Facial cosmetics rose 1.5% to $1 billion this year, while eye cosmetics climbed 3.4% to $982.7 million and lip cosmetics dropped 5.2% to $582.9 million in 2007.

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"Consumers are looking for wearable color, superb quality and convenience at a reasonable price," said Krystyne Biser, product development, Revlon, New York, NY. "They are extremely savvy. Pair that with the economy in its current state, and you have a more challenging environment. People are really considering every purchase so you need to be able to offer products that deliver what you claim."

Back in Time

The Fall 2008 face is "enchanted, ladylike with a touch of mystery, a vision of glamour and smoldering sensuality," said Ms. Biser of Revlon. Her company's shade palette for the season features hues ranging from "deep smoldering berries, velvety crimsons to lush whisper pinks and nudes."

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Reds, burgundies, purples and browns also dominate one of M.A.C's Fall 2008 rollouts, Cult of Cherry. And, the latest Inspiree Limited Edition Collection from Paul & Joe Beaute, sold at Bergdorf Goodman, features autumn tones of brown, beige and mauve.

"Summer's bright, bold and vivacious palette is replaced by rich plums, burgundies and smoky metallics for Fall 2008. Color is still a focus, but tones become deeper, mature jewel tones," said Craig-Ryan French, lead product advisor for research and development at Paul & Joe Beaute, Toronto, Canada.

At Avon, the Jillian Dempsey for Avon Fall 2008 Retro Charm Collection was inspired by the season's vintage runway styles. Key looks for the season include expressive eyes in dark tones with touches of warm gold and soft, fresh cheeks. Lips can be understated with a hit of color, from brick red to classic nude.

"Retro Charm blends soft, neutral shades with edgier, darker colors for a fashion-forward yet wearable look," said Ms. Dempsey. "Vintage touches in application like a nude lip add a retro twist to modern shades."

Bobbie Brown's aptly-titled Fall 2008 collection, Mauve, also features "vintage-inspired hues with a modern twist," according to the company. Headlined by the Mauve Face Palette, featuring cool neutral shades for cheeks, eyes and lips, the collection's colors include various brownish-pinks--from an exclusive chocolate mauve eyeshadow to a dusty mauve creamy lipstick.

Ultimately, Fall 2008 is about blending "the bold with the cold," according to Tina Perez, vice president of global marketing, Markwins International.

"As fashions stay strong with distinctive looks and focused color direction, cosmetics will complement and counter balance. The image of a strong woman, self-assured and confident emerges through her clothing and accessories but she maintains her purity and simplicity through her makeup," she added.

Kiss and Tell

Glossy textures in darker shades of lip color complement the seasonal eye's dusky hues. "Sultry lips are always sexy, so this fall I'm introducing four new lip vinyls in berry shades that will add substantial sheen and reflective fullness," said Vincent Longo, chief executive officer and creative director for Vincent Longo, New York, NY. His Fall/Winter 2008 collection is called "Edited Highlights," inspired by the women of Italian cinema.