Causeway coast: the jewel in the crown of this impressive Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty on the rugged Antrim coast is the internationally renowned Giant's Causeway. But as Christian Amodeo discovers, the road to the provision of adequate protection for the region has been as rocky as the causeway itself

Geographical, March, 2008 by Christian Amodeo

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It might be for leprechauns that the Emerald Isle is better known, but in visiting the Causeway Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), I've come in search of a giant--or rather, his famous creation of polygonal stones.

Instantly recognisable, the Giant's Causeway is a place of mystery and wonder, well worthy of its 1986 World Heritage site designation. On the blue-skied winter's day that I visit, the only giants present are the battalions of North Atlantic waves striking the causeway's basalt columns with a relentless monotony. Their dogged power is awe inspiring, the causeway's beauty captivating.

Established in 1989, this County Antrim AONB is one of nine such sites in Northern Ireland and comprises 4,200 hectares, including 30 kilometres of magnificent coastline from Portrush to Ballycastle. 'The Causeway Coast is one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline in Europe,' says Ruth Blair, higher scientific officer with the Environment and Heritage Service (EHS), a Northern Ireland agency of the Department of the Environment. 'At its heart is the Giant's Causeway, but it contains much more in the way of outstanding scenery, including dramatic cliffs, stunning beaches and impressive monuments.'

A big draw is Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Originally a way for fishermen to reach the craggy islet to check their salmon nets, it's now a popular tourist challenge. Like the causeway, Carrick a-Rede is National Trust-owned and an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI)--one of seven within the AONB. Unfortunately, ASSI status doesn't necessarily guarantee immunity from human impact. At White Park Bay, for example, there is concern over the long-term impact of sand and gravel extraction from the beach.

Another highlight is the dramatic ruins of Dunluce Castle. Set atop a 30-metre-high stack and connected to the mainland by a bridge, the ruins' position is precarious indeed--in 1639, the kitchen collapsed, taking several staff members with it.

After the Armada galleass Girona sank in a storm off Lacada Point in 1588, the ship's cannons were installed at the castle. The Girona's treasures the greatest ever Irish wreck haul--were only found in 1967, and are now held in Belfast's Ulster Museum.

STORMY WATERS OF ANOTHER KIND

When it comes to management of the AONB, things haven't always plain sailing either. The Causeway Coast and Glens Heritage Trust (CCGHT) was established in May 2002 in part 'to promote environmental management and sustainable tourism' over a large swathe of Northern Ireland, including the Causeway Coast AONB, and to implement funding from the Northern Ireland Rural Development Programme a huge task for its three-person staff

That same year, a Causeway Coast AONB management plan was drawn up (it remains the only such plan for a Northern Ireland AONB). It led to the formation, two years later, of an AONB management group of 11 members who represent all of the stakeholders and meets quarterly to 'oversee the delivery of action points' (or, in common parlance, to get things done).

'The Causeway Coast AONB Management Plan sets out a long term holistic vision for the area and includes objectives and actions to help secure that vision,' says Blair. That said, the management group is demanding a review this year.

'The management plan has proven extremely difficult to implement because it's non-statutory and very limited resources have been provided,' says Peter Harper, former director of CCGHT. 'There are also issues with the nature of the recommendations, some of which are very woolly and difficult to implement:

BEHIND THE MARK

A major difference between AONBs in Northern Ireland and those in England and Wales is the Rights of Way Act 2000, which makes the latter's AONB management plans statutory documents; in Northern Ireland, there's no legal obligation for the appointed organisation to implement a plan's recommendations.

'There is also much less funding available for AONB management in Northern Ireland than in England and Wales, where they have access to additional funds under the Sustainable Development Fund,' says Harper. 'In short, protected area management [in Northern Ireland] needs to move up the political agenda.'

These issues have restricted AONB management work to awareness initiatives only--which is still an uphill struggle.' There's a lack of awareness of what an AONB means, both among local people and at government level,' says Maxime Sizaret, CCGHT's natural heritage officer.

Graham Thompson, the National Trust's project director at the Giant's Causeway and current chair of the AONB management group, believes Northern Ireland politicians are 'way behind the mark. Northern Ireland leaders have difficulty grasping the importance of protecting our environmental heritage.'

Another factor is the strength of the agricultural lobby and strong development agenda in Northern Ireland, proven perhaps by the fact that Northern Ireland is the only European country other than Albania without a national park.