THE JUDGMENT OF PARIS.(Brief Article)

W, February, 2000 by RAPER, SARAH

Helene Darroze is probably as close as you can get to culinary aristocracy. The blond 32-year-old is a fourth-generation chef from the southwest of France who trained for three years under superstar chef Alain Ducasse.

No wonder Restaurant Helene Darroze, her new place on the Left Bank of Paris, is so hot.

As the waiters clear lunch one autumn day, Darroze recovers in the kitchen with a glass of red wine and organizes recipes for an appearance on chef Joel Robuchon's television show.

"What sticks with me the most from Ducasse is his attention to the choice of ...