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American dining that's fine for all seasons; Four Seasons eatery offers great food; if only there were a dress code.(Brief Article)

Crain's New York Business, May, 2002 by Lape, Bob

There is so much understated elegance, superior American food and top-notch service at the signature restaurant of the much-honored Four Seasons Hotel that it is infuriating to share this great room at dinner with guys in T-shirts and baseball caps. Give us a break! OK, there was only one table of T-shirted young dudes, and another where a twentysomething thought it apt to hunker down with his date and wear his baseball cap while digging into $22 appetizers and $38 entrees.

That's two too many. There is such a thing as being too accommodating. Dress codes may change here, but the extraordinary dining experience in the glamorous room with a spill of music and buzz from the adjacent cocktail lounge shouldn't. The ambience is ageless and awesome. Three...

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