Greek updated for a modern arena; Onera's American twists shed new light on Hellenic tradition; tables remain in dark.(Onera)(Restaurant Review)

Crain's New York Business, December, 2004 by Lape, Bob

Byline: bob lape Michael psilakis, the young man turning Greek cuisine on its ear at the new restaurant Onera, says the reaction has been spectacular. That's appropriate, since his food is just that. Onera, the Greek translation for "dreams,'' is a blue and white dreamscape reworked by Matthew Sudock of M Design to create a bar and lounge for 20 people and a dining room for 60.

Table appointments by Rosenthal and Sambonet suggest a significant experience ahead. It is, as Mr. Psilakis, a Long Island-born accounting graduate, adds modern American ways to the ingredients and flavors of his immigrant parents' kitchen, simultaneously honoring and rebelling against tradition. Mr. Psilakis boldly goes where few have gone before. He offers offal tasting dinners,...

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