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Berlin reborn

Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel,  December, 2003  by Mark Sullivan

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With their city changing so fast, you can't blame Berliners for being nostalgic. One of Germany's top-grossing films this year is Goodbye, Lenin, a comedy about an East Berlin family's attempt to shield their bedridden matriarch from the news that the wall has come tumbling down.

It's a charming story, but had the woman glanced out the window she would have seen a city remaking itself on the monumental scale of Paris or Vienna. A-list architects like I. M. Pei are filling in the gaps with some of Europe's most audacious buildings. Daniel Libeskind's Jüdisches Museum drew hundreds of thousands before the silvery lightning bolt contained a single exhibit. In Potsdamer Platz, a wasteland back when the wall was still standing, the Sony Center is topped by what appears to be an enormous parachute just beginning to unfurl.

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