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The Sea Islands

Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel,  November, 2005  by Nina Willdorf

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This One Is Scruffy, This One Is Preppy, This One Is Like No Other.... The Georgia coastline-yes, Georgia has a coastline-is a many-splendored place. and The vibe changes dramatically from island to island to island.

Day 1. Savannah to Tybee Island

My husband, Michael, and I land in Savannah around lunchtime. Georgia's First City, as Savannah declares itself, is architecturally awesome-and maddening for drivers. Tour buses slowly crawl around historic squares. Tourists cluster in the middle of the street to peer at the impeccably restored 18th- and 19th-century houses. We have to go through town to get to our evening's destination, Tybee Island, so our plan is to park, fortify with some barbecue, and get on our way.

I'd heard that Walls Bar-B-Que serves the best pulled-pork sandwich around. A dirty white house with turquoise shutters, Walls has a hand-scrawled sign on the ...