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Sleep tomorrow: When Over Half the PopulationIs Under 30, the Night Is Very Young

Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel,  September, 2006  by Laura MacNeil

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On Saturday evenings, all of Istanbul seems to stroll along Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian avenue in the Beyoglu district. Couples, packs of young men, and extended families share the sidewalks with lottery ticket vendors, men roasting corncobs on street carts, and café singers belting pop tunes.

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Beyoglu is on the European side of the Bosporus, across the Golden Horn inlet from Topkapi Palace and the Aya Sofya. Istiklal Caddesi, its main artery, runs along the ridge of a huge hill, so that turning down any side street means getting an amazing view of the city. The area's art nouveau buildings, once home to apartments and embassies, now house upscale boutiques, galleries, and restaurants. It wasn't always this way. Beyoglu, much like Turkey as a whole, has undergone a radical transition in the last decade. "When I opened NuTeras in 2001, the neighborhood was filthy," says chef Mehmet Gürs, referring to ...