Small producers batter big boys in French 'Camembert war'

0 Comments | AFP, April, 2008

CAMEMBERT, France (AFP) — It's a David vs. Goliath showdown in the codified world of French cheesemaking. And in round one, an intrepid little collective has dealt a hefty blow to big industry to uphold standards for the country's iconic Camembert.

"We've won," said Francois Durand, as he lovingly ladled raw milk from his herd of 50 dairy cows into individual cheese moulds, scoffing at suggestions it was a health risk.

In the minute village of Camembert itself, he is the last cheese-maker who still turns out the plump little discs that -- thanks to the raw milk -- can bear France's coveted "Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC)" label certifying origin and quality for foods and wines.

The 46-year-old sees his specialty as more a calling than a job, not...