The Man Who Runs Restaurants for Men

Esquire, December, 2003 by Francine Maroukian

Ken Aretsky has been a New York restaurateur since “infusions” meant cocktails and the Food Network was nothing but three guys who sold prime beef. In the '70s he opened Oren & Aretsky, a steak house. In the '80s he ran “21.” And last month he opened Pearson's, a barbecue “joint” on the Upper East Side. But it's his flagship, Patroon, opened in '96, that comes closest to perfection. A plain but plush haven with unfussy, first-rate American food, Patroon remains the ultimate restaurant for men. (For me, going to Patroon is like wearing my boyfriend's shirt: Sure, it's a little too big, but I feel fabulous in it.) Here's why.

Aretsky gives you your space.

He could have squeezed in ten more tables, but instead Aretsky chose ones that are larger than standard issue and kept the setup spare but luxurious: crisp white tablecloths ...