A Revolutionary Itinerary

Most of the numerous war memorials in Concord, Massachusetts, are to the young men of the town who died while winning America's wars over the centuries, but one is to the losers. Standing at the North Bridge and dated April 19, 1775, it reads, They came three thousand miles and died To keep the past upon its throne; Unheard, beyond the ocean tide Their English mother made her moan.

Like those English soldiers, my countrymen, I had to come 3,000 miles—but on a peaceful mission, to look around battle sites of the War of Independence. Some of these are found in particularly attractive corners of America, and they provide a nice connecting theme for a family holiday. But my visit also gave me an opportunity to ponder the complexities and ironies of history. My journey began at Lexington and Concord, once a day's march from Boston, now half an hour's ...