Trieste Elegies
Atlantic, The, June, 2002 by John Donatich
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The mind of the traveler has much to work with in Trieste. The place has hilly vantage points, beautiful balmy summers, earthy and sensual food, the largest yachting festival in Europe (the Barcolana), and a strange, unresolved history. The city sits on a strip of land called the Karst that is now in the far northeast of Italy, on the Slovenian border, but that has over time been host to the Illyrians, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Goths, the Venetian Empire, Napoleon's Empire, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Germany, Yugoslavia, and Italy again, since 1954.
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The city proves that globalization is anything but a new phenomenon; the region speaks of ambivalence and political revisionism. It bridges cultures to mark, as the Triestine author Claudio Magris once put it, "the passage from the airy marine ethos of Venice to a continental and problematic Mitteleuropa , grand, morose laboratory of civilization's discontents." Trieste's moody winters ...
