Sole Cardinale
Atlantic, The, October, 2002 by Corby Kummer
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Other than Maine lobster, it's hard to think of a seafood as closely linked to a state as crab is to Maryland—just ask anyone who has been to a waterside Baltimore crab boil or had crab cakes packed with freshly picked Chesapeake blue crab. But I recently discovered another, equally hallowed Baltimore seafood legend at its birthplace—Maison Marconi, a restaurant that occupies a grand old brownstone and is hardly changed from the 1920s, when H.
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L. Mencken held forth over the lamb chops. Any change in the décor or management elicits comment from the Baltimore Sun , Mencken's paper; the death of a veteran waiter last year prompted a regular diner to tell the Sun , "He had a flair when he poured the chocolate sauce over the ice cream." The dish with which Marconi is synonymous is lobster cardinale, a big lobster whose meat has been mixed with a ...
