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The Magic Brewing Machine

Atlantic, The,  December, 2007  by Corby Kummer

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When the Starbucks steamroller passed over the land, coffee was enjoying a renaissance sparked by Alfred Peet, who opened his first coffee roaster and shop in the Berkeley hills in 1966 and showed Americans a world of flavors beyond the bland blends they were used to. Peet’s Coffee & Tea gave rise to the Gourmet Ghetto, whose most famous occupant was and is Chez Panisse. Peet died in August at 87, his legacy already assured by those who trained with him—including the three founders of Starbucks, one of whom, Jerry Baldwin, eventually bought Peet’s. And now a new generation is picking up where they left off.

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Peet had a passion for dark roasts—beans heated over a flame, turned constantly, for longer than was traditional in the United States or the northern Europe of his upbringing. He taught his students to roast beans with a subtlety ...