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Among the Pandas

Atlantic, The,  December, 2007  by James Fallows

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Everyone knows that pandas are cute.

Very few people know firsthand how cute pandas are in quantity. Only 12 pandas exist in the United States, rented from the Chinese government for $1 million per year apiece (and some extra fees) and spread out among four zoos. The world’s other zoos outside China hold only two dozen or so more. When glimpsed by visitors, these pandas are usually on their own, making themselves scarce behind tree stumps or chewing resignedly on bamboo. At best we see a mother panda with her cub.

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The one place on Earth where giant pandas can be seen close-up and in large numbers is the Wolong Nature Reserve in southwestern China, in the mountains of Sichuan province that lead up to the Tibetan plateau. This part of China has more than 20 panda reserves and breeding centers; Wolong differs from the others in the ...