Lamba Hoany: proverb cloths from Madagascar
African Arts, Summer, 2003 by Rebecca L. Green
not heavy, they help trap body heat and provide a protective layer against the cold.
In some areas of Madagascar, the lamba hearty has become the main element of clothing. For example, women in the Antakarana region in the far north wear the cloth not only as a shawl but also as a matching skirt, made by sewing together the two ends of the rectangular cloth to create a tube shape. They step into the tube, grasp two bunches of the excess cloth at the top edge, and tie a knot that is then tucked back into the newly formed waist of the skirt.
Many people use lamba hearty as aprons to protect their more expensive clothing while working. In the kitchen or around open cooking fires, for example, women wrap file proverb cloth around their hips and waist, tucking the two ends under the
1. Factory-printed cloth called lamba hoany carrying the saying "Gasy ka manja" (Madagascar/Malagasy is strong). Made by Rajsi Bros., Bombay, India. D No. 5020.
Lamba hoany is commonly called "proverb cloth" because of the proverbs or other verbal expressions printed near the bottom of the design. The cloths, made of cotton, rayon or a cotton rayon blend and measuring approximately 50" x 65" (127cm x 165cm), are factory produced in either India or locally in Madagascar and are worn by all the various peoples of the island republic.
This page, counterclockwise from top right:
2. Three Betsileo women from Madagascar's central highlands wear cloth at a lanonana, a ceremony preceding a reburial. Near Sandrandahy, 1993. Photo: Rebecca L Green.
A lamba hoany can be used in various ways as articles of clothing. As shown here with a similar kind of commercial cloth, it can be pulled over the head for warmth
3. A Betsileo woman serves drinks during an all-night watch over the body of a deceased male relative, Near Sandrandahy, 1993 Photo: Rebecca L. Green.
The woman has tied her lamba hoany around her waist, using it as an apron.
4. The author and an Antakarana friend fish for shrimp in a river. Near Bevary, 1993 Photo: Lisa Gezon.
For messy or wet activities, the cloth can be worn by itself, tied under the armpits.
5. A young Antakarana girl makes "ears" out of sticks and berries. Bevary, 1993 Photo: Rebecca L. Green
When sitting on the ground, girls and women drape lamba hoany over their knees for modesty's sake.
Opposite page:
Top: 6. Lamba hearty. Inscription: Feno tsy mikobana (Something that is full will not slosh around). Made by Rajsi Bros, Bombay, D No. 1025
The proverb or saying printed on a cloth does not necessarily relate to the imagery. Larnba hoany produced in India are characterized by their brilliant, saturated palettes and designs framed by decorative borders.
Bottom: 7. Lamba hoany Inscription: Fitia mifamaly mahatsara fihavanana (Gratitude makes friends [or relatives] happy) Made by Lucky Soraj, India, D.N.-218. top edge (Fig. 3). For particularly messy or wet jobs, a person might simply wrap a lamba hoany around the body under the armpits, as one would wear a towel after a shower. The cloth covers the torso and thighs, providing a certain level of modesty while allowing one to move more freely. In the northern part of the island, women wear the cloth this way while shrimp fishing in the region's many small rivers (Fig. 4). When not in use, a person may simply twist the cloth into a long rope and tie it around the waist like a belt.
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