Desert dreams: hiking through the world's tallest sand dunes in the Namib Desert

American Fitness, Jan-Feb, 2005 by Jill Shields

People wear battle scars on their sleeves like a brag sheet of their latest adventure. In my case--a shocking pain in my backside from climbing sand dunes in the Namib Desert. Wind carved into perfectly crafted mountains of burnt orange, the dunes are said to be the most picturesque in the world. They are also the world's tallest.

Standing near the top, the dark sky slips westward as pale magenta peaks over the horizon--a sight truly worth the arduous climb. It's sunrise in the Namib Desert, a time of day when colors are strong. The dunes range from deep mauve, ochre and blood red to apricot and amber. Above, the sky is a thousand shades of blue. The air is still and cool, making for crisp contrasts--which will later be lost in the wind and haze of the heat-soaring day. A sea of sand surrounds us as far as my fellow travelers and I can see and we hear nothing except the gentle scrunching of sand beneath our shoes.

The dunes of the Namib Desert are part of one of the world's largest National Parks--the Namib Naukluft Park, spanning nearly 20,000 square miles--and cover one third of the African nation, Namibia. Formed some 80 million years ago, the dunes are claimed to be the world's oldest.

Sand washes down the Orange River and into the icy South Atlantic Ocean where a combination of current and wind push the sand back up onto the land again. The incessant wind continually restacks the dunes--a vast corridor of sand between the Kalahari Desert and the Atlantic Ocean. The older the dune the brighter the color, as the iron in the sand oxidizes.

The easiest way up a dune is along the firm sand at the crest. Sand at the slip face is too soft. Windward slopes have gentle rises while leeward slopes can have drastic drop offs.

Turning around to catch our breath, our tracks quickly disappear as the gentle wind carves the crest back into untouched perfection. It's dead quiet and we pause to see the sun creep over the horizon. Darkness disappears as elongated shadows take center stage. Cameras come out of Ziploc bags; this is the moment we've climbed so high for. A trip to the Namib Desert is not exactly on the well-beaten tourist path. Accommodation is both necessary and limited. Access is by four-wheel drive (4WD) or light plane only. Few people travel here, but the experience is well worth the efforts of the journey.

Breakfast on the dunes at sunrise is the perfect precursor for the trek to Sossusvlei--a huge ephemeral pan set amongst the highest sand dunes in the world. The dunes can be accessed by 4WD or on foot (for those keen on a two-hour hike through sand reaching 150[degress]F). At Sossusvlei, a half-mile hike further will take you to Dead Vlei--an old pan with skeletons of acacia trees some 500 years old. Making it to Dead Vlei is a triumph. It is only half a mile but remains the longest half-mile of my life. Alone, I set up the self-timer on my camera to document the proud moment, hindered only by a nagging pain in my bum--a leftover, I suspect, from the earlier dune climb at sunrise. However unbearable, the heat and soreness pales in comparison to the splendor of standing in this unfathomable setting.

The landscape appears to be lifeless, but is home to an array of insects and wildlife. A side-winding adder buries itself just beneath the hot sand exposing only its eyes, patiently waiting for unsuspecting prey. Meanwhile bicolor beetles ride piggyback to conserve body moisture. Insects survive on bits of vegetation blown in by desert winds. The only moisture comes from early morning fog and dew, which by this time of day have long evaporated. The occasional succulent clump of desert grass is the only vegetation.

Back at the campsite, spotted hyenas and dassies can be seen at dusk and into the night. Sunset offers a last chance to feel the powdery sand between your toes, with a smaller dune climb and a drink to celebrate. Golden colors hang in the early night sky--clinging to the dust and haze of the day.

A SANDY WORKOUT

As anyone who has tried it knows, walking on sand requires greater effort than walking on firm ground. The body's mechanical work of walking is 1.6 to 2.5 times greater on sand than on firm surfaces. The foot slips and moves the sand, resulting in additional work for muscles and tendons. In fact, the foot slips further in the sand at slower paces, so the slower you walk the more effort on muscles and tendons. Scientists have found energy expenditure is 2.1 to 2.7 times greater on sand than hard surfaces. Combine this with an incline and a dune climb really burns those calories!

DESERT HIKING SURVIVAL RULES

* Carry enough water.

* Dress appropriately--broad-brimmed hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, sturdy hiking boots and loose-fitting, natural-fiber clothes.

* Plan the walk for the cooler time of the day--early morning or late afternoon.

* Use a walking stick or pole for balance.

* Know your limits.

* To reduce knee and joint injuries, control dune descent by shifting your body weight after your foot makes contact with the ground.