Keep it simple

With all the choices at the cosmetic counter, washing one's face has become more complicated than it used to be. Concentrated, foamy cream-mousse cleansers claim to quickly and efficiently remove make-up, while soothing, cooling, concentrated gel-foams say they will dissolve even the most tenacious cosmetics. "There are just too many cleansers, make-up removers and soaps on the market," says Dr. Tabasum Mir, a New York oculoplastic surgeon and skin-care specialist. "It's absolutely mind-boggling."

There are those among us who buy far too many of these products, eager to discover the next miracle for the skin, and, as a result, are over-cleansing. "People don't realize the main objective of cosmetic companies and stores is to move product; they're not concerned about the over-cleansing, over-moisturizing and skin problems that may result from overuse," cautions Dr. Mir. "They would not be multi-national corporations if they [were]."

Over-cleansing is one of the most common mistakes Dr. Mir sees in her office. It removes natural oils and results in dry, irritated skin. Wash your face twice a day, morning and evening, she advises. After "working out, it's better to rinse off perspiration, as opposed to washing the face a third time, which will more than likely result in oily rebound." People also dry their skin with harsh soaps. "Patients with acne and oily skin should use the mildest types of soap substitute cleansers," says Dr. Mir.

You should gently wash your face. "Rubbing and using abrasive methods will only cause the skin to stretch, as well as spread bacteria," she explains, rib remove dead skin cells, Dr. Mir advises using alpha hydroxy products rather than rubbing, massaging or using abrasive cleansers.

The next step we take in torturing our skin is over-moisturizing, which can result in either an allergic reaction, clogged pores or acne. "There is a newly popular diagnosis of adult acne floating about dermatology," says Dr. Mir, "Often the cause is over-moisturizing [which] makes the condition almost completely avoidable. The best method is to use a soap-free cleanser and water, wash it off and pat dry. By doing so, you avoid a whole cycle of over-cleansing, over-moisturizing and white and black heads at an age when you should have grown out of it."

So next time you're tempted to stop by the cosmetic counter and pick up more cleansing products, remember Dr. Mir's sage words of advice: "Don't believe the hype. Keep in mind that the simpler the routine, the better it is for the skin."

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