Active Anguilla: how to get into shape on vacation without even trying

American Fitness, May-June, 1998 by Cynthia Wilkens, Norm Wilkens

HOW TO GET INTO SHAPE ON VACATION WITHOUT EVEN TRYING.

Just how laid back is the Caribbean island of Anguilla? Let's put it this way. The big event of the day is going to the post office to get the mail. Not the place for a non-stop party animal, but ideal for a couple of overworked people in search of a little relaxation and lots of recreation.

Anguilla, in the British West Indies, is one of those tiny dots of paradise often overlooked by tourists. Even hurricanes seem to pass right over the island, and Christopher Columbus, who was certainly within a spyglass glimpse of the island on his second voyage in November 1493, never mentioned it in his journals. It remained a plantation island throughout the colonial period. And even Anguilla's neighbors, St. Martin, St. Kitts and Nevis, have looked upon the island as a poor stepsister.

When visitors come calling, they find what we do--an island with pristine beaches, sparkling water and some of the best resorts in the Caribbean. Although a hurricane passed over the island two years ago, there was little damage. The locals tell you the winds just blow over since Anguilla is so flat. Today, the island looks much as it must have 25 years ago. Happily, development here has been controlled. St. Martin is the air hub for this part of the Caribbean, a short, 190-mile connection from San Juan.

After a brief and bumpy flight from St. Martin, and an even bumpier auto ride from Wallblake Airport, we arrive at the Sonesta Beach Resort, a Moroccan fantasy of arches, fountains and 50 acres of tropical beach front. The resort is on Rendezvous Bay West, on the south shore of the island. After getting settled, we go for a walk on the long stretch of white sand beach. Off shore, the crystal clear waters of the sea disappear into emerald depths. Suddenly, work and the office seem eons away.

That night, we dine on the terrace of the resort's Casablanca Restaurant, where the menu reflects a European-Caribbean cuisine with heavy French overtones. At a table overlooking the sea and the distant mountains of St. Martin, we enjoy fresh fish, seasoned with locally-grown herbs and spices, and served with mangos and limes. It is some of the best food we've found in the Caribbean.

With all this good eating, we decide we have to do something if we are going to continue to fit in our clothes. We decide to swim every chance we get. The ocean is ideal. But for laps, we use the palm tree-lined pool overlooking the beach. We also go snorkeling and marvel at the incredible variety of sea life. Fish in psychedelic colors swim past in profusion. We also go kayaking and play tennis; unlike many resorts, there's no charge here for the courts. The soft sea breezes and temperatures in the 80s make the climate just right for these outdoor activities.

The resort offers instruction in wind surfing, which we observe from our beach chairs. While the sport gives your arms and legs a real workout, we notice that the real exercise for most beginners comes from constantly falling off and getting back on the sail board. Wind surfing like a pro takes a lot of practice.

The Sonesta also has a fine, well-equipped fitness center, which we visit to do some toning exercises for specific muscles. It is busy in the mornings, but we find it empty in the afternoons. Actually, if you think about it, when you have a magnificent beach with sand and surf where you can walk or run, plus great scenery--why stay indoors and use a treadmill? Makes sense to us.

So instead of spending a lot of time on the stationary bikes, we ride real bicycles. Not only is it good exercise, but it is also a great way to explore the island. On one trip, we discover Cheddie's Carving Studio. Cheddie is a local artier who uses driftwood and local hardwoods to create unique shapes. Other bike journeys take us to Bethel Methodist Church, built of local stone with arched windows of Gothic design, and St. Gerard's Roman Catholic Church with a design created by a Belgian Priest.

On another day, we pedal to the Heritage Collection. This museum and archive houses an impressive assortment of artifacts, photographs and historic documents, along with records dating back to the Arawak and Carib tribes which inhabited the island in pre-Columbian times. It's worth some time to read the detailed accounts of the "British Invasion," which inspired the local inhabitants to assemble at the airport and "surrender" en masse at the first sign of the British soldiers departing from the plane. No one ever fired a shot.

Toward the end of our stay, we decide we've earned a treat. Tearing ourselves away from the Sonesta, we take a short ride into town to eat at Koal Keel. It's in a lovingly-restored building known as Warden's Place, one of Anguilla's oldest structures. Not only can you dine in historic surroundings, but you can shop for vintage rums and antiques, enjoy tea and pastries, and surround yourself in the atmosphere of a different time. And since this is Anguilla, the dining room always serves fresh, grilled fish. We find that asking for the sauces on the side saves calories. Another ubiquitous dish is an island pea soup, rich with the flavor of local spices and quite tasty.