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Walk this way: strolling and exploring the southern English countryside - walking tours - includes related information

American Fitness,  July-August, 1994  by Elizabeth Harryman,  Paul Lasley

Upon crossing the English Channel's rough waters, with high waves and blustery winds, we arrived in Southern England cold, wet and hungry. We drove from the ferry terminal at Portsmouth to the little town of New Milton through freezing rain, and began to wonder what we were doing plodding through the muddy countryside in March.

Finally, we turned down a winding lane that led to Chewton Glen, a picturesque brick country house surrounded by immaculate lawns. Two young men holding umbrellas greeted us and sheltered our brief walk to the lobby. We suddenly felt welcome, as though they were inviting us into their home instead of greeting our entrance to a hotel.

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"You must have some tea and sandwiches to warm you up," said the receptionist. We sat and warmed our hands in front of the fireplace. Weariness began to vanish as we sipped tea, munched on the freshly-made chicken, cucumber and egg salad sandwiches and watched the sun break through the mist outside. It was like walking into a Jane Austen novel.

Revived, we were shown to our room overlooking the gardens, and were tempted to stay there all afternoon. The floral decor was warm and cheery, but there would be time later for cozy chats. We were on a mission. We'd planned a visit to Chewton Glen to work out in the hotel's fitness center and explore the walking trails in the southern English countryside.

From Chewton Glen, you can go walking or jogging in several directions. Since we'd just arrived from the sea, we opted for the path to Barton Cliffs on the English Channel. A handful of men and women with hardy dogs braved the gusty winds that scoured the bluffs and whipped up the waves below. We reached our destination and watched the ships pass offshore before heading back to the warmth of the hotel.

At dinner that night, we began to unwind a little more. The Marryat Room is a picture of understated elegance, with peach-colored walls and candlelit tables. The food of chef Pierre Chevillard has been praised by critics as some of the best in England. Dishes relatively low in calories are marked on the menu for health-conscious visitors.

Fitness goals aside, we indulged and resolved to work off the calories the next day. An appetizer of a crisp potato pancake layered with fresh foie gras was followed by a pastry tart filled with leeks and truffles. For the main course, there was a dish of polenta layered with eggplant and tomato and perfectly cooked English lamb. By the time we got around to sharing an iced coconut souffle, we'd started to forget about our travel and weather weariness.

We spent the following morning in the health club, starting with a workout in the gymnasium. The room has several computerized work stations, including a step machine, rowing machine and LifeCycle. It was a pleasure to stretch out our tight muscles and exercise.

Even more enjoyable is the hotel's sybaritic pool--a huge indoor pool with picture windows that look onto the spring gardens. We floated in the water, looking up at the ceiling painted to resemble a blue sky with puffy white clouds.

For light lunching amid a workout schedule, the health club features the Balcony Lounge--a little snack bar overlooking the pool. After a morning of scenic exercise and eating, Chewton Glen's guests can enjoy a collection of soothing beauty treatments. The health club offers hydrotherapies, seaweed body wraps, collagen facials and verbena masks. We opted for basic facials and full body massages. The treatments were some of the most professionally executed we've experienced at any spa. As our tightly-knit muscles relaxed, the last vestiges of work and worries were massaged away.

The fitness activities at Chewton Glen only begin at its health club. Visitors can play golf on a nine-hole course, with coaching from resident professional Nick Cole. Two indoor tennis courts are available for year-round play. Players can get coaching or just a few racket pointers from resident pro Matthew Salisbury.

There are also some more unusual activities to pursue. Clay pigeon shooting anyone? How about riding with hounds, fly fishing or scouting for deer? Chewton Glen sits at the edge of the New Forest, a misnomer since it dates from the time of the Norman Conquest. It has been a preserve since the days of William the Conqueror. The folks at the hotel can set up guides, clothing, even a champagne picnic lunch. Most visitors forgo firearms and go nature stalking with a camera.

Strolling the 70 acres of grounds is a treat for those who favor the mother of all exercises--walking. Beyond the gates of Chewton Glen are countless trails for hiking or jogging. Some lead along the beach; some traverse the centuries-old woods of New Forest where you'll see ponies grazing. They're so tame they'll come and beg for treats, but you're not supposed to feed them.

Day trips outside Chewton Glen include exploring the nearby town of Beaulieu where you can wander the ruins of a Cistercian abbey, or driving to Exbury Gardens. The Gardens offer walkers 200 acres of wooded pathways framed by giant banks of rhododendrons and azaleas.