Wall crawlers: like ballet on the rocks, climbing is a feat of physical finesse - includes related article on choosing safety equipment - Off-Road Fitness Section

American Fitness, Sept-Oct, 1993 by Victoria Clayton

Pros describe it as the magical meeting of balance and friction. Novices describe it as unadulterated fear mixed with a fatiguing workout. If you haven't had an adrenaline rush lately, try rock climbing.

Rock climbing requires some learned technique and has a degree of inherent risk. It's best to take instructional classes or go with highly experienced climbers. An introductory rock climbing class is sponsored by the Wilderness Institute, based in Agoura Hills, California, a nonprofit outdoor exploration group.

A day of hands- and feet-on instruction in the basics of bouldering, rock climbing and rappelling will make anyone realize climbing is an acquired skill. It takes practice to develop the necessary confidence and technique. It also takes breaking instinctive habits--like hanging on for dear life.

Contrary to the human inclination to use the hands to find a wedge or nub in the rock, grasp it like a vice grip and stick like Velcro, successful rock climbing hinges on the finesse of the feet. "The key is to stay vertical and keep your body weight over your feet," says Tim Carr, a Wilderness Institute instructor. "The more you lean in to the rock, the more you slip. Just when you feel the best thing to do is hug the rock, you have to push your body back away from it, which scares people at first."

After a brief introduction to the safety equipment and a few stretches, my class was ready. The adventure started at Stoney Point, a popular site in Chatsworth, California filled with boulders and crags. The first rudimentary climbing skills taught were a foot technique called "smearing" and a basic hand-hold. Just like it sounds, smearing is smudging the rock area with the front of the foot for maximum surface contact. The hand-hold cups the hand, using the thumb to buttress the fingers for increased strength. After learning these fundamentals, everything else is uphill.

Facing the Fear

Beyond the physical benefits, one of rock climbing's main enticements is undoubtedly mental exercise. My clearest memory is desperation. Up 20 feet on what looks like the smooth-as-glass face of a rock, nothing matters but the next flint for the fingertips to grasp or tiny outcrop for the foot.

When climbing, it's a face-off between you and the rock. It's thrilling to discover with the support of instructors--and a large dose of sheer determination--rocks can be climbed. When you're through climbing and your feet are firmly on the ground, there is an undeniable sense of exhilaration. You have beaten the rock.

Preparation and Practice

Rock climbing is a strenuous activity that demands a delicate balance of power and flexibility. Like ballet, climbing calls on all components of fitness: muscular strength, endurance and cardiorespiratory power. A total-body routine is essential.

Also like ballet, focusing on one or two areas at the expense of the others is the primary cause of injuries, according to the Journal of Physical Education, Recreation and Dance (March, 1992). Hand, finger and forearm injuries are common because beginning climbers rely too heavily on these rarely-used muscles. Increasing strength in these areas helps, but fostering overall fitness pays off the most.

As long as you're accustomed to doing a 30-to 60-minute aerobic routine three or four times a week, you should have adequate stamina for climbing. Increase stamina with lengthy but slow running, biking or rowing. Fartlek training, which intersperses short-fast sections with long-slow sections during a continuous run, to great training for climbing.

Rock climbing calls for upper-body strength, but since continuous moves are done during a climb, muscular endurance is actually more important. Increase endurance with resistance training and light weight training. Strong abs also come in handy and help you avoid injury.

While the sport truly incorporates all facets of fitness, balance and flexibility are most crucial. With increased flexibility, the climber is not as reliant on pure muscular strength. This makes climbing easier. Do stretches to encourage flexibility, especially static stretches. For balance, practice walking on a beam or curb. Those gifted with gymnastics or dancing talent will excel at rock climbing. Overall, the best training for climbing is to climb. Practice prevents injuries.

Some universities offer classes specifically on fitness for climbing. Local colleges and back-to-nature organizations also offer reasonable priced instruction. Or look for one of the new indoor climbing gyms in your area. Artificial climbing walls with hand-hold simulators and peg boards are springing up across the country.

Once you've learned a few climbing skills, "bouldering"--low climbing done without harnesses or ropes--is an excellent workout. "Bouldering allows you to increase the difficulty of your moves without getting too far from the ground," says Wilderness Institute instructor Lynn Richardson. Pros use bouldering to warm up and hone their skills.