Wheels of fortune: bicycling the California coast - includes related information on accommodations and services

Every year, millions of people come from around the world to admire the scenic California coastline with its ever-changing sand dunes, sculptured sea stacks and abundant tide pools. Visitors enjoy the antics of squabbling gulls, marvel at pelicans gliding in the breeze and gaze awe-struck when a whale blows close to shore.

Only the adventurous see the coast by bicycle rather than by RV or car. As an avid cyclist, I can't think of a more inspiring way to firm up, lose weight and strengthen the heart and lungs.

A complete tour of the 1,019-mile long California coastline begins in Brookings, Oregon about five miles north of the California border. Most cyclists roll down the coast via Highway 101 and California Highway 1, occasionally detouring onto lesser-traveled roads. The highways don't always hug the Pacific (at many points along the way the road heads inland), yet there's always beautiful scenery.

Highway 101, the main coastal route from Oregon is known for its narrow, truck-laden roads. Fortunately, there's a quick detour onto Ocean View Drive upon entering California. Here, the green fields are dotted with Easter lilies and storybook farm houses with white picket fences.

I passed through rolling terrain to the small town of Crescent City. If you're interested in seeing the Crescent City lighthouse, be sure to check the tide charts--you can only visit at low tide.

Just south of Crescent City, brace yourself for the triple summit ahead. According to one cycling guide, this is one of the most hazardous sections of the coastal route. It's recommended to ascend the triplets in the early morning or on weekends when traffic is light. Zooming down the south side of the slope, the road passes through majestic redwood groves. Standing hundreds of feet high, hundred-if not thousand-year-old redwoods grow up to 25 feet in diameter. The road is narrow here, so wearing an orange safety vest is suggested for visibility.

Further along is Prairie Creek State Park, where a herd of Roosevelt elk joined me for lunch. While dining on bagels and homemade oatmeal raisin cookies, I watched stately elk grazing and bulls resting in the shade.

Giant redwoods and breathtaking ocean views accompany the ride from Prairie Creek to Patrick's Point State Park. After pedaling more than 75 miles in a day, a hot shower and meal are a welcome respite while camping at Patrick's Point.

From the campground, Patrick's Point Drive leads to Trinidad. Although narrow, the road is usually uncrowded, and the landscapes are postcard-perfect. After Eureka, the road curves inland to the Avenue of the Giants, which is actually the old Highway 101 and is far more scenic than the newer highway. Rolling terrain and wide shoulders make the ride to the Avenue of the Giants a delight. This shaded old road leads through giant redwoods and several tiny tourist towns.

Leggett is the last town before Leggett Hill via California Highway 208. Legends of cyclists buried by the roadside plague the mind while pedaling over the infamous 2,000-foot hill. But, climbing this highway is a dream compared to some of the other grades along the route.

After traveling inland for two days, it's a treat to pedal parallel to the Pacific again. However, California Highway 1 leading to Fort Bragg is often narrow and plagued with truck traffic. A bicyclist was killed here one summer, and now the truckers are fighting to keep cyclists off the road. Most motorists are courteous and have no qualms about obeying the law and sharing the road with cyclists, but remember to ride defensively.

From Fort Bragg to Bodega Bay, the landscape is decorated with everything from rugged coastline to rolling, grassy hills and miles of weathered fence. Sea stacks dot the deep blue Pacific, and feathered creatures glide in the endless breeze. The highway gets steep and winding, but flattens out after reaching Bodega Bay. The level cycling here is short-lived. Enjoy it while you can! After pedaling over hilly countryside, moving inland, I passed through Olema and into San Francisco.

A good map is needed for the ride through San Francisco. Fortunately, I met a lone bicyclist the day before entering the famous city. We rode a multitude of bike trails and side roads into the city, then I continued south while she stayed in San Francisco. Riding over the Golden Gate Bridge (a highlight of the trip), I watched the boats and ships heading to and from the sea.

During the next few days, fields brimming with vegetables seemed to fill every vista. However, the roller coaster terrain through the open grasslands is demanding. I spent a layover day in Monterey and pedaled a portion of the famous 17-Mile Drive (the entire route is not open to bicycles). I watched the playful antics of a sea otter offshore and visited Fisherman's Wharf and Cannery Row.

Farther south along Morro Bay lie the Point Lobos Light Station, Pfeiffer-Big Sur State Park and Hearst Castle. Heading from San Simeon State Beach to the south, open country and wide shoulders welcome cyclists. Inland from Pismo State Beach are the small towns of Guadalupe and Orcutt en route to the city of Lompoc.