Face value: a primer to the promise potions at the cosmetic counter - includes related information

Victoria Clayton

We've all dreamed about it--slathering on a lotion, potion or cream and waking up 10 years younger and 20 pounds thinner. With the advent of new, high-tech cosmetic ingredients, this dream may start looking more like reality. Pick up any popular beauty or fashion magazine and you're likely to read about new "anti aging" products. Even the newspapers printed articles on a new ingredient which, when slathered on your thighs, promises to eliminate the notorious "orange peel" cellulite.

Many of the ingredients in these wonder products fall under the term "cosmeceutical," which was coined by dermatologist and Retin-A researcher Albert Kligman, M.D. The term is not recognized by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), but laypeople generally use it to describe hybrid drug-cosmetics touted to rid wrinkles and smooth skin, among other claims.

While the products often promise near-surgical results, minus the knife, don't expect too much, warns Paul Scott Premo, director of education for Los Angeles-based Murad Skin Research Laboratories. "Cosmetics merely affect the appearance of the skin," he says. "They don't alter the structure of the skin like drugs can. To some extent, the performance of many cosmetics is surpassing what they are traditionally known to do. But no cosmetic is going to totally eliminate the wrinkles on aged or extremely damaged skin."

With all the advertising claims, it's no wonder we're lured into spending big bucks on products with high-tech sounding ingredients. The best advice is to be a conscious consumer. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Following is a quick lesson on the cosmeceutical babble you may hear at the local cosmetic counter.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs used in beauty products are usually synthetic versions of naturally occurring acids from fruit, wine and milk. The acids have been in use since the days when Cleopatra bathed in milk. Today, AHAs such as lactic or citric acids are all the rage. AHA products are available in every price range. Glycolic acid, the simplest in structure of the alpha hydroxy acids, is one of the most widely used.

AHAs work by breaking up the thick outer layer of the skin where build-up of dead cells occurs. The acids clean pores, smooth fine lines and lighten discolorations. AHAs are often used in conjunction with vitamins, lightening agents and topical acne treatments. The FDA is squawking about the lack of long-term research on AHAs, but consumers generally rave about the results. Unlike Retin-A, they do not cause photosensitivity (increased sensitivity to the sun). But you should wear a sunscreen if you are using an AHA product, says Premo. AHAs slough off dead skin cells, and new, fresher cells tend to be more sun-sensitive.

Antioxidant Vitamins

The antioxidant vitamins are vitamins A, C and E. Besides each vitamin's specific benefit, they are collectively known to scavenge free radicals--molecular loose cannons that destroy the building blocks of healthy skin. Vitamin A derivatives (retinol, retinol A and beta carotene) soften the skin. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) helps repair skin damage. Vitamin E (alpha tocopherol) is a well-known moisturizer that curbs water loss from the skin. Research on the efficacy of topically applied vitamins is sketchy, but everything from shampoos to skin care products now contain antioxidants.

Arbutin

This substance is gaining promise as a non-irritating skin lightener. It hails from Japan and is found in blueberry, cranberry and pear tree leaves. According to cosmetic manufacturers, the cost is still a bit prohibitive but in the future we may see an increased use.

Hyaluronic Acid

A top-notch moisturizer that binds moisture within the surface layers of the skin, improving the look and texture of dehydrated or sun scorched skin. For best results, look for a gel-based product containing hyaluronic acid.

Hydroquinone

One of the most well-known skin lightening agents, it is FDA approved for over-the-counter use in small amounts. Some people experience skin irritation with use of hydroquinone.

Salicylic Acid

This is an FDA-approved agent to fight acne. Salicylic acid is sometimes referred to as a beta hydroxy acid, and is often combined in glycolic acid-based oily- or acne-prone skin care products. It breaks down the dead skin cell and promotes exfoliation.

Words to the Wise

While the allure of cosmeceuticals with promising, therapeutic ingredients may be irresistible, the jury is still out on most of these ingredients. Many of the ingredients have not been approved or tested by any government agency. While this does not take away from anecdotal evidence or your own "road test" results, it's an important point to keep in mind.

Some of the products containing these wonder ingredients are expensive. It's easy to plunk down $50 or $100 on scientific sounding beauty products in skin care salons or department stores. However, there are reasonably priced versions available. "In our case, we've put our money into production rather than advertising," says Bob Strom, president of the Los Angeles-based cosmetics company Cosmania, Inc. Cosmania offers Nature Club alpha hydroxy acid and antioxidant beauty products for under $10 at discount and drug stores nationwide. "Our goal is to offer the average consumer a product as high quality as anything else on the market but not as costly," adds Strom.

Also, watch for sensitivity. Certain people may be sensitive or allergic to some of the ingredients. It is best to do a patch test behind your ear for three days in a row to test your sensitivity to a new product. And the last words of wisdom--nothing replaces a good diet, adequate exercise and a healthy dose of self-esteem. Af

A Cellulite Solution?

Cellulite is caused by fibrous bands of tissue that run perpendicular to the skin's surface and attach to the undersurface of the dermis, pulling on the skin--and creating the puckered "orange peel" look.

Aminophylline, a prescription asthma drug, is the controversial new ingredient in the much-lauded thigh cream. George Bray, M.D., of the Louisiana State University Pennington Biomedical Research Center concluded 2% aminophylline cream applied topically causes regional fat loss from the thighs of the women he studied. Skeptics say many asthmatics take the drug, and they still have cellulite.

Experts agree diet, exercise and the luck of the genetic draw still rank when determining if you'll be a cellulite victim.

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