Lively, lazy Acapulco

American Fitness, Nov-Dec, 1990 by Rhonda J. Wilson

Lively, Lazy Acapulco

One of the world's most dependable destinations for relaxation and recreation

A half century ago, the Mexican Government began an ambitious resort development on its Pacific coast. Building several sites on breathtaking beachfront land, this privileged tropic soon became "escape central" to an affluent frequent flier community. Thankfully, Acapulco is now more accessible to the playful rather than just the purely privileged.

Like the reeds the Nahuatl Indians named Acapulco after, much of the sophistication and elegance of this seaside resort are also just a memory. Luckily, the seductiveness still remains--sunsets to write home about, cliff divers falling 130 feet to a narrow ocean cove below, over 20 beaches on and around Acapulco Bay, an internationally renowned nightlife, an average annual temperature of 80 degrees F and "experience expenditures" are still relatively reasonable (dinner for two with domestic wine averages $ 25 to $ 35 in U.S. dollars).

The locals are also a significant part of Acapulco's appeal. More than anxious to negotiate a price for the souvenirs they sell on the street and beach, you can also practice your broken Spanish on these eager entrepreneurs. Key phrases include "Cuanto cuesto esto?" (How much is this?), "Que es su mejor pricio?" (What is your best price?) and "Es esto de plata autentica?" (Is this real silver?). High quality jewelry, leather goods, resortwear and native artensania (traditional crafts) can be found at the more sophisticated shopping malls, boutiques and markets in the city. Popular stops include the Zocalo (main square), the Artcraft Market and Jose Maria Iglesia Street (in the downtown area).

Best of all, Acapulco is one of the world's most dependable destinations for outdoor recreation. Broncos (mini motorboats), windsurfers, small catamarans, jet skis, ski boats and even inner tubes can be rented at most hotels. Deep-sea fishing excursions (for swordfish and barracuda) and scuba diving and snorkel equipment rentals can also be easily arranged at most hotels. Due to the intense temperatures that sometimes prevail, mornings and late afternoons are recommended for more traditional sports like golf and tennis. The Acapulco Princess and Pierre Marques resorts share two championship 18-hole golf courses, which are accessible to guests staying at other hotels. There is also a nine-hole public course available on "The Strip" (Acapulco's main thoroughfare) at Club de Golf Acapulco. At anytime during the day, try charter fishing for small game like sailfish, marlin, tuna, mackerel and snapper. Of course, for an "up, up and away" adventure, parasailing is still a popular vacation pastime.

If you would rather spectate than participate, try town touring in a horse-drawn calandria. Carriages usually leave from the Malecon or dock area and pass through the downtown and bayside Costera Miguel Aleman. For sea-worthy sightseeing, board a yacht cruise which visits Puerto Marques, Acapulco Bay and La Quebrada (site of Acapulco's famed cliff divers). Drinks, dancing and swimming are included in the cruise package.

Fish and fruit appear to be to Acapulco what spa cuisine is to Los Angeles. Ceviche, a specialty of this coastal region, is a cold "starter" or "entree" featuring raw fish marinated in fresh lemon juice and flavored with onion, tomato, cilantro (coriander) and chile. Eaten with salt crackers or maize tortillas, each seafood restaurant has its own variety of this popular local dish. Fresh fruit favorites include Mexican mangoes with lemon juice and sprinkled with "chile piquin" (a flavored powdered red pepper), coconut palms filled with a sweet nectar or used as a convenient container for all types of drinks and large pineapples easily transformed into drinking vessels. Jicamas, blood red watermelons, red papayas, cucumbers and oranges are also plentiful.

Keep in mind, the public water supply in Acapulco is unreliable. Although most restaurants and hotels serve purified water, be sure and ask if bottled water is available when visiting small roadside cafes. "Tienes agua mineral?" (Do you have mineral water?) is an easy travel phrase to ask your server. Remember to check the ingredients of any bouled drinks you consume. Also, try to avoid eating foods containing mayonnaise. In the heat and humidity, foods like potato and macaroni salad tend to spoil easily.

Seaside accommodations in Acapulco are as varied as the city's sea sports. You have the option of being pampered or prudent. Ultra-lavish properties outside the city include the Acapulco Princess and Pierre Marques overlooking the spectacular sands of Revolcadero Beach. Secluded on 480 acres of meticulously manicured gardens, the Acapulco Princess is designed like an old Aztec temple. Swim in five freeform pools, including one with a swim-up bar and one with a grotto bar under a waterfall. In addition to the two 18-hole golf courses the resort shares with the Pierre Marques, nine outdoor tennis courts and two air-conditioned indoor courts are also available. At the Pierre Marques, which is adjacent to the Princess, five outdoor lighted courts and three freshwater pools are at your disposal among the property's private bungalows and villas.