Comfort Cookin'

Vegetarian Times, Dec, 1998 by Susan Shumaker, Than Saffel

A West Virginia eatery adds delicious twists to old-fashioned favorites.

Just south of the Mason-Dixon line, amidst the forested trails, whitewater rivers and undulating hills of West Virginia's Allegheny Mountains lies the quiet community of Morgantown. Here you'll find the Mountain People's Cooperative, a non-profit organization that's dedicated to offering nutritious food at the lowest possible cost to its 400 members. Founded in 1975, the co-op has since grown into an active community center and market with the mostly organic and all-vegetarian restaurant--Mountain People's Kitchen--at its heart.

Small wooden tables, a 1940's-style deli case and fresh flowers all add to the eatery's homey charm, People who come to shop here often find themselves stopping to catch up on the latest news over a delicious meal or making new friends while ordering one of chef Sue Novak's legendary sandwiches at the deli counter. Tempting lunchtime choices include the tempeh Reuben, a crunchy concoction topped with homemade Russian dressing and organic sauerkraut, and the Philly cheese "steakless," an amazingly faithful interpretation of the classic--marinated seitan topped with sauteed peppers, onions and soy or dairy cheese. The spicy blackened tofu sandwich, a Cajun creation served with a tangy lemon tahini dressing, is another favorite. But by far the most popular option is Sue's breaded tofu "sammy": herb-crusted tofu, crispy sprouts and shredded carrots drizzled with sweet pickle dressing and served on whole wheat toast.

Dinner at the Kitchen offers an entirely different set of options. The potato and beet stir-fry served over wild rice with braised Oriental tofu is as delicious as it is beautiful. Dyed fuschia by the beets, the matchstick potatoes add a dash of vibrant color to the bed of exploded black wild rice hulls and golden tofu triangles. Other dinner favorites: grilled lemon pepper seitan and crispy garlic risotto griddle cakes topped with fresh marinara sauce.

Satisfy your sweet tooth with a slice of the impossibly moist (and dairy-free) poppyseed cake or organic coconut and banana cake with chocolate icing. Take our word for it: This is one kitchen you'll never want to leave.

Breaded Tofu Sammy

4 TO 5 SANDWICHES VEGAN

1 cup nutritional yeast
1/4 cup gluten flour
2 Tbs. hulled sesame seeds
2 Tbs. garlic powder
2 Tbs. onion powder
2 Tbs. turmeric
3 Tbs. dried parlsey
1 tsp. dried chives
1 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1 lb. firm tofu, sliced into 1/2-inch
cutlets
1 cup plain soy milk
2 Tbs. canola oil

Coating: Mix first 10 ingredients in medium-size bowl. Set aside.

Pour soy milk into small bowl. Dip each tofu cutlet into soy milk to wet both sides. Press tofu firmly into dust on each side to cover.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown cutlets on both sides, about 2 minutes per side.

Serve on toasted whole wheat bread topped with sweet pickle relish, tomato slices and sprouts if desired. Or serve over brown rice with lemon tahini dressing.

Per Serving: 233 Cal.; 18g Prot.; 11g Total Fat (1g Sat. Fat), 17g Carb.; 0 Chol.; 251mg Sod.; 10g Fiber.

Susan Shumaker and Than Saffel are freelance writers living in West Virginia.

RELATED ARTICLE: Mountain People's Kitchen

Address: 1400 University Ave., Morgantown, WV 26505

Phone: (304) 291-6131

Hours: Breakfast: Mon. thru Fri., 9 a.m. to 11 a.m.; Lunch: Mon. thru Thurs., 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Fri. and Sat., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. thru Thurs., 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Brunch: Sun., 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Menu: Vegetarian, 50 percent vegan, 70 percent organic

Prices: $2.50 to $6.75

Dress: Casual

Alcohol: No

Smoking: No

Seats: 25

Credit Cards: All major

Reservations: Not accepted