Tempting Tofu - recipes

Vegetarian Times, April, 1999 by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley

Soybeans are perhaps the most potent ingredient we have in our arsenal of healing foods. Recent studies show that compounds found exclusively in them (called isoflavones) can lower cholesterol levels, balance hormones, activate toxin-destroying enzymes and play a critical role in preventing many forms of cancer. How can you take advantage of the unique properties of this wonderpod? It's easy: just integrate it into your daily diet in its most versatile form, tofu. Tofu is made by separating soy milk into curds and whey (a thin, clear, light-amber-colored liquid), pressing the curds together, cutting the resulting soy cheese into blocks and packing them into the whey or water.

Tofu is the most popular soyfood in the United States today, with hundreds of producers. It can be found in the produce section of most supermarkets as well as in natural food stores. While tofu is usually sold fresh in Asian markets, you can also find it in dried, fried, fermented and aged forms. The latter variety is more like an aged dairy cheese with a strong flavor.

The amount of whey pressed out of the soy milk curds during the tofu-making process is what ultimately determines its texture. Soft tofu (sometimes called Japanese-style tofu) has a custardy consistency, which is great for making dips, dressings, custards, puddings or any dish with a soft texture. Firm tofu has a medium density and is the best type to use when making tofu salads, cheesecakes and scrambled tofu. Extra-firm tofu is dense, holds sliced or cubed shapes well and is ideal for cutlets and stir-fried dishes.

The market for ready-made tofu products is big, and it's only getting bigger. You can buy several different types of baked and marinated tofu or tofu that's been seasoned with Chinese five-spice powder or French herbs. These varieties can be eaten straight from the container or cooked with other ingredients. Tofu mayonnaise is a creamy condiment that spreads and tastes like egg mayonnaise but has 50 percent less fat. Tofu salad dressings are available as a more healthful alternative to creamy, dairy-based salad dressings.

If you're a "from-scratch" kind of cook, here are several delectable recipes that make excellent use of firm and extra-firm tofu. The resulting dishes showcase its remarkable versatility.

Tofu Cutlets with Tapenade Sauce

4 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE (30)

The neutral flavor of tofu provides the perfect vehicle for the piquant flavors of, a tapenade sauce.

1/4 cup packed fresh parsley
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. drained capers
6 oil-cured olives, pitted
3 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes,
   cut into pieces
5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. firm tofu, well drained and cut into
   eight 1/2-inch-thick slices

In food processor, add parsley, lemon juice, capers, olives and tomatoes and process until finely chopped. With motor running, drizzle in 3 tablespoons oil until blended.

In large skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add tofu in batches and cook, turning once, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Spoon about 1 1/2 teaspoons of tapenade sauce onto each tofu slice. (Store leftover tapenade in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)

Per serving: 262 cal.; 18g prot.; 20g total fat (3g sat. fat); 6g carb.; 0 chol.; 69mg sod.; 1g fiber

Recipe adapted from 366 Healthful Ways to Cook Tofu by Robin Robertson (Plume/Penguin 1996).

Grilled Tofu Burgers

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Enjoy these burgers with homemade chutney, ketchup or hot sauce, and serve on toasted kaiser rolls or hamburger buns.

1/3 cup unsalted pumpkin seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
4 slices stale or toasted sandwich bread,
   torn into large pieces
1 1/2 cups cooked or canned black beans
   (drained and rinsed if canned)
16-oz. pkg. firm tofu, well drained and
    cut into 4 pieces
1 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 Tbs. miso paste (see glossary, p. 119)
1/2 tsp. salt or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 to 2 Tbs. vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 350 [degrees] F. In small baking pan, spread pumpkin seeds and bake until golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in small, dry skillet over low heat, toast cumin until fragrant, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

In food processor, process bread to fine crumbs; you should have about 2 cups. Transfer crumbs to large bowl. Add pumpkin seeds to processor and pulse until chopped; add to crumbs. Add beans to processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add beans to crumb mixture.

Crumble tofu and add to bean-crumb mixture. Add toasted cumin, ginger, garlic, miso paste, salt and pepper. Using your hands, mix well -mixture should be stiff enough to form patties. If mixture seems wet, add more bread crumbs. Shape mixture into 8 thin patties.

Heat large skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of oil and heat until hot, then add as many burgers as possible without crowding. Cook until deep golden brown, turning once, 3 to 4 minutes per side, adding remaining 1 tablespoon oil if necessary. Serve hot.