Crowning Glory - internal health is reflected in hair

Vegetarian Times, April, 1999 by Valerie Latona

Our guide to getting shiny, healthy hair in no time

Bad hair days.

We all have them. Rather than just accepting them or throwing on a hat to hide your head, examine your hair habits. Everything from the kind of comb you're using to what you eat and how much water you drink can affect whether you'll have dull, dry, damaged, oily or can't-hold-a-style hair. "The road to stunning hair does not begin from the outside; it begins with our internal health," says Helen Lee, Chinese herbal practitioner and author of The Tao of Beauty (Broadway Books, 1999).

Dry scalp, lackluster strands and split ends are dead giveaways that you're not eating a diet that's good for your hair. Make sure you are getting enough vitamins and minerals from fresh fruits, vegetables and whole grains (B vitamins, vitamin E, iron, zinc and silica are particularly good for hair) and good fats, including essential fatty acids, also known as EFAs (flaxseed oil, dark leafy greens, walnuts, almonds and sunflower seeds), advises New York City holistic beauty expert Kat James. And don't forget to drink at least eight 8-ounce glasses of water a day.

Next focus on what you put on your hair. Because hair type can change as a result of pregnancy, medications (including birth control pills) and aging, even your tried-and-true products may no longer be appropriate--and may be full of harmful chemicals. "Hair products that contain man-made ingredients can be too harsh and drying," explains Stephanie Tourles, a Hyannis, Mass.-based aesthetician and author of The Herbal Body Book (Storey Communications, 1994). She recommends studying product labels and steering clear of sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate and cocamide DEA. "All are detergents that create the lather we love so much in our shampoos,, she says. (But, she points out, lather isn't a sign of cleansing power; it's just a chemical reaction caused by synthetic ingredients.) Better choices are gentle soap-based cleansers made with castile (derived from olive oil) and decyl polyglucose (created from corn). "They clean but don't strip the natural, protective oils from the scalp and hair," says Tourles.

Botanicals are another family of ingredients that you want in hair products. Peppermint, eucalyptus, thyme and rosemary are great hair herbs because they stimulate the scalp, says Robin Michelle, owner of the Alternative Salon in Chappaqua, N.Y. Increased circulation creates more blood flow, which results in better distribution of oil all over the scalp and helps prevent dry, damaged and thinning hair as well as the clogging of hair follicles by dead cells and oil. Salons like Moty Moty in New York City combine herbs and natural oils with scalp massages and hot towel wraps for a relaxing, deep-conditioning treatment. The heat from the towels helps open the hair follicles (in the same way steam opens pores on the skin) and allows them to absorb the herbs and nutrients. "The goal is to nourish the hair by revitalizing and treating the scalp," says salon owner Moty Alvow.

To help you in your quest for a healthy mane, we've created a care guide for different types of hair.

NORMAL HAIR

THE PROBLEM: There is none. This hair type has the right balance of oils on the scalp with neither excessive dryness nor oiliness. Here's how to preserve that balance.

Beauty Rx

* Shampoo every other day, unless you exercise regularly (then wash daily). It's best to use gentle shampoos that contain plant-based ingredients, such as aloe and jojoba oil, and don't strip natural oils from the scalp and hair.

* Use a conditioner sparingly. You don't need a conditioner every day if your hair isn't dry. Instead, use a detangling after-shower spray if your hair knots easily.

* Massage your Scalp weekly. Gently apply a few drops of lavender essential oil to boost blood flow in the scalp. It will promote the distribution of natural oils and maintain shine.

EDITORS' PICKS

Shampoo: Aveda Shampure; Kiss My Face Olive and Aloe Shampoo

Conditioner: Aveda Curessence; Kiss My Face Olive Oil Conditioner

Other Products: Aubrey Organic Primrose Tangle-Go Conditioner, Lusterizer and Styling Spray; ShiKai Salon Naturals Medium Hold Finishing Spray

OILY HAIR

THE PROBLEM: The scalp's sebaceous glands are overproducing oil, creating hair that is greasy-looking and often flat by midday.

Beauty Rx

* Wash hair daily. Use shampoos with such plant-based astringents as tea tree; peppermint, sage and lemon essential oils. Dilute one teaspoon of shampoo in one teaspoon of water to make the shampoo more gentle.

* Condition only the ends of the hair. You'll keep the hair healthy and prevent product buildup, which can flatten hair.

* Stay away from heavy styling products. These tend to weigh the hair down. Instead, look for products that contain lighter ingredients like seaweed and plant-based tragacanth and arabic gums.

* Keep your hands out of your hair. Sweaty palms will make your hair more greasy.

EDITORS' PICKS

Shampoo: Dr. Hauschka Pure Shampoo; Earth Science Citress Shampoo; ShiKai detergent-free Original Natural Shampoo