Jamaican Me Hungry - recipe - Brief Article

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1999 by Lisa Turner

Authentic island fare with a vegetarian twist

Visitors to Jamaica typically nibble on goat curry, beef pepper pot and other meat-based fare. But not at Minion Phillips' place. The owner of Minnie's Restaurant (which won the 1994 Restaurant of the Year award) was the chef for the late reggae legend Bob Marley. Today she's has created a vegetarian oasis in the lush, tropical center of Ocho Rios, Jamaica. Tiny white lights illuminate the alfresco dining area; the closest thing to indoor seating are the wrought iron tables shaded by lattice. But the best seat is under the palm trees, where you're closest to the sand and surf of Cutlass Bay. Order a tall glass of passion fruit nectar and get ready for an amazing meal.

Rather than emphasizing meat and dairy, Phillips relies on and uses pungent spices like pimento, thyme, pepper, ginger and rosemary to accent the delicacies she creates with the island's exotic fruits and flavorful vegetables. Start your meal with the steamed ackee--a local fruit that looks and tastes like scrambled eggs--served on crispy toast. Or try one of the delicately spiced soups served in oversize, stout white bowls. The pumpkin soup is a creamy blend of sweet pumpkin and ginger that's sure to delight. And the Red Pea Stew is a hearty combination of red peas and root vegetables dappled with "spinners," tiny flour dumplings that temper a fiery broth.

For a great entree, try Minnie's version of run dun, a dish usually made with lamb or beef. Hers mixes chayote, yams and other regional vegetables in a rich coconut custard that's seasoned with thyme and nutmeg. In the mood for something out of the ordinary? The tofu brown stew is a delicious combination of coconut milk and soy sauce, dense with onions and sauteed homemade tofu.

In the islands, the best desserts are made of voluptuous fruits. The locals favor sliced mangos and papayas as a cool, light finish to a spicy meal. If you're craving something a little less sensible, try the decadent sweet potato pudding, a hefty portion of succulent coconut and sweet potatoes baked into a thick custard. Or just kick back with a cup of comfrey tea and listen to the sound of the waves. Jah, mon.

Red Bean Stew

SERVINGS 6 DAIRY-FREE

A rich, traditional stew that's filled with the flavors of Jamaica.

2 cups small red beans, soaked
  overnight, rinsed and drained
1 1/2 quarts water
4 small carrots, diced
2 medium chayote squash, diced
  (see glossary)
1 medium yam, diced
2 cups lite coconut milk
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh thyme
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 small Scotch bonnet pepper, minced
1/2 tsp. salt or to taste

Combine peas and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 45 minutes or until tender.

Add carrots, chayote, yam and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer until vegetables are soft, about 15 minutes.

Add scallions, thyme, garlic, Scotch bonnet pepper and salt. Simmer, uncovered, until mixture thickens slightly, about 20 minutes. Serve with brown rice.

Per serving: 273 cal.; 15g prot.; 1g total fat (0 sat. fat); 53g carb.; 0 chol.; 207mg sod.; 15g fiber

RELATED ARTICLE: Minnie's Restaurant

Address: Main St., Ocho Rios, Jamaica, West Indies

Telephone: (876) 795-1655

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Prices: $3.50 to $24

Dress: Casual

Alcohol: Yes

Smoking: Smoking and nonsmoking sections

Seats: 500

Credit Cards: All major

Reservations: Not required, accepted for parties of eight or more

Lisa Turner is a writer living in Fort Lauderdale, Fla.