The Real Orlando - vegetarian restaurants in Orlando, Florida

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1999 by Susan Shumaker, Than Saffel

Miles from the make-believe is a thriving city

Pity the poor Orlandoites. By choice or by circumstance, they live in one of America's hottest tourist epicenters. Every day of the year, their once-quiet hometown plays host to hordes of vacationers, drawn, as if by some giant magnet, to the sun-drenched temples of pleasure to the south and west: Walt Disney World, Universal Studios, even Pirate's Cove Adventure Mini-Golf.

A fairly predictable lot, these guests come, they deplane, they point their rental cars toward The World, they take the wrong exit and cause a 15-car pileup trying to back down the ramp. Safely ensconced in their hotel rooms, they don Bermuda shorts and fanny packs and tramp from attraction to attraction, in search of ever more extravagant prefab pleasure. Four days later, overstimulated and burned-out, they get back in their rental cars, point them toward Orlando International and leave--without ever venturing into the city whose name is stamped on their plane tickets.

But just 15 minutes north of tourist Orlando lies the real thing, shining like a beacon to those desperately in need of a reality fix--or a lunch that doesn't cost $30. Don't be fooled by grocery stores boasting slogans like "The Beef People" or billboards offering "Free Steaks with Windshield Replacement." The current influx of tourists has taught the local folk to become quite cosmopolitan in dealing with people from an array of different cultures. Orlando restaurateurs are almost always able to provide vegetarians with enticing options. Armed with the right info, vegetarians can eat exceptionally, and inexpensively, well in the shadow of The Mouse.

DOWNTOWN ORLANDO

A great introduction to the "other" Orlando is the small but bustling antiques district, a long city block that encourages a visitor to indulge in a pastime all too rare in motorized Orlando: walking. Park on the 1800 block of North Orange Avenue and spend the morning wandering from shop to shop, but bring your appetite to White Wolf Cafe. This funky hangout began life tucked in a corner of Michael Hennessey's antiques store. A few objets still decorate the establishment, but chef Robert Tresner's food is the big attraction these days. The light menu of salads and sandwiches features interesting twists on familiar Mediterranean fare. And the Vegetarian Plate sports two kinds of hummus--a garlicky traditional and a black bean variation--as well as a surprisingly delicious mango-almond tabbouleh. The excellent Cool Cuke sandwich is a deceptively simple blend of cream cheese, cucumbers, sprouts and tomato on whole wheat bread.

The primary downtown tourist mecca is Church Street Station, a cobblestone-paved city block teeming with turn-of-the-century buildings and pedestrians. It's worth a visit just to check out the woody interiors and incredible antiques in popular eateries like Rosie O'Grady's Good-Time Emporium. Vegetarians will find more inspired food elsewhere, however. One delightful option is Dexter's of Thornton Park, just a short drive up north. Located in a gentrified neighborhood near Lake Eola--one of the many lakes in the region--this sparsely furnished offshoot of the original Dexter's in Winter Park has become a haunt for the upscale but casual neighborhood crowd. Chef Drew Weisner and his staff make virtually everything in-house, including the fettuccine in the spicy Veggie Peanut Pasta. In addition to a decent range of salads, there are a few standouts, like the incredibly hearty Eggplant Napoleon. Best of all, a selection of breads, raw ingredients and homemade dressings allows vegetarians (including nondairy eaters) to devise a really satisfying sandwich. Wait an extra five minutes and you can enjoy your culinary masterpiece heated and pressed Cuban-style.

Of course, if it's real Cuban fare you're after, head south to Numero Uno, a small, folksy restaurant whose diverse and obviously loyal clientele make it one of Orlando's best-kept secrets. Families with small children and young couples dressed to impress crowd into the small dining area. Vegetarian Cuban food is usually an oxymoron, but this restaurant offers a couple of tasty home-style options, including a delicious pressed bean burger. Those seeking a fantastic (and dairyless) introduction to the flavors and textures of authentic Caribbean cooking will be impressed by Numero Uno's vegetarian plate, piled high with rice, garlicky steamed vegetables, fried plantains, sweet corn fritters and knockout red beans. On weekends, there's even live music.

As you navigate the city's seemingly endless, and not-always-pretty urban sprawl, it might be hard to imagine the pre-Disney Orlando, when citrus groves, a burgeoning aircraft industry and visiting aristocrats were the city's lifeblood. But an escape to the Harry P. Leu Gardens, the former estate of an Orlando industrialist, is sure to help. To the east of Orlando's art and science museums, the manicured lakeside grounds of this 50-acre botanical garden include the largest camellia collection in North America, as well as plantings of ferns, bromeliads, orchids, palms and a seasonally changing herb garden.