Das Cafe - includes recipes - Brief Article - Review

Vegetarian Times, July, 1999 by Suzanne Gerber

Berlin has it all, including great vegetarian food

If your German food dictionary begins with "apple strudel," skips to "potato dumplings" and ends with "wurst," a trip to Cafe V in the trendy Kreuzberg section of Berlin will help fill in the blanks. (The "V" in the name, pronounced "fow," stands for vegetarian and this stylish cafe is living proof that "vegetarian German cuisine" is not an oxymoron.)

Cafe V, a 9-year-old restaurant with high ceilings, rag-painted mustard and brick walls and spare furnishings, is a favorite among Berlin's artsy, politically active vegetarian community. Dishes like Tofu-Eggplant Moussaka and Spinach Balls with Spaetzle and Mushroom Sauce are insurance that the cafe's veg commitment will never change.

The meat-free menu, funky music and shiatsu and meditation flyers by the entrance make V feel like an American veg restaurant, but this is Europe. In other words, be prepared for a fully stocked bar, rich sugary desserts--and cigarette smoke. (Mercifully, there's a nonsmoking section.)

Owner/chef Haydar Inci is an easygoing guy around 40 who likes to socialize with patrons. He and his brother, two of Berlin's sizeable Kurd population, run the restaurant and create their own recipes, which take their inspiration from around the world but have a decidedly Mideastern emphasis. Our appetizer platter of world-class hummus, eggplant-stuffed tomatoes, delectable grape leaves (inventively served with lemon slices), zucchini with goat cheese, stuffed pita, toasty bruschetta and a yogurt-dill dipping sauce was a dinner unto itself. And then the entrees arrived: generous portions of spinach pockets and spinach balls, the polenta dish featured here and tofu-eggplant moussaka thrilled even the non-vegetarians in our crowd. If a trip to Berlin is in your future (and it should be), put Cafe V on your must-see list--right up there with Checkpoint Charlie, the Bauhaus Museum, the Reichstag, shopping in the spiffy East and of course, seeing what's left of the Wall.

Chickpea Polenta with Curry Sauce

4 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

1 Tbs. ground cumin
1 tsp. paprika
3/4 tsp. coarse salt
3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
1 1/4  cups chickpea flour

Curry Sauce

14-oz. can coconut milk
1 1/2 tsp. curry powder
1 stalk lemongrass, cut in half
3/4 to 1 tsp. curry paste
1/4 tsp. kosher salt

Spray 8-inch square pan with cooking spray. In large saucepan, bring 3 cups water and broth to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low. Add spices and parsley, then gradually stir in flour. Stir 2 minutes, until thickened. Remove from heat and stir 1 minute. Immediately pour into prepared pan and spread evenly. Let stand until set, about 30 minutes.

Sauce: In small saucepan, bring all ingredients just to a boil, stirring. Remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes; remove lemongrass. Serve with polenta.

PER SERVING: 287 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 22G TOTAL FAT (18G SAT. FAT); 276 CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 567MG SOD.; 12G FIBER

Cafe V

Address: Lausitzerplatz 12 (Kreuzberg section)

Phone: (011-49-30) 612-45-05

Hours: Daily, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Price: Dinner for 2, with wine, $50 (service is included, so tip 5 - 10%)

Dress: Casual

Alcohol: Yes Seats: 100

Credit Cards: No

Reservations: Recommended

Suzanne Gerber is executive editor of Vegetarian Times.