Fabled Fare - Review

Vegetarian Times, March, 1999 by Carrie Handy

Grabbing a legendary meal is easy in Burlington, Vermont

At Zabby's Stone

Soup you'll rarely get the same meal twice, but the food is always delicious. Housed amid the shops and coffeehouses that line the streets of this progressive college town, this funky eatery encourages its chefs to indulge their culinary whims. This freedom, say owners Tim Elliot and Avery Rifkin, is what's responsible for the one-of-a-kind dishes for which Stone Soup has earned its glowing reputation.

A chalkboard lists the day's menu of hot soups, sandwiches, steamed dishes and homemade breads and desserts. The wooden counter, self-service steam table and salad bar are all crowded with this variety of choices. Even though you may not find that vegetable stew you ate last week, you're sure to find a new favorite among the many meals with Middle Eastern, Asian, Eastern European and Indian influences.

On a recent visit, for example, the offerings included a tangy tofu-and-green pepper veggie salad, a hearty pea soup with a hint of red pepper, and a spicy veggie lasagna. But creatures of habit will always find a few items they can count on: the "meaty" portobello mushroom sandwich, garnished with caramelized onions and roasted zucchini; the macrobiotic, Japanese-style tofu and brown rice pilaf; the delectably moist vegan chocolate cake. On Fridays, customers line up for braided loaves of challah bread and babka cake, sweetly kissed with rum, Kahlua or amaretto flavoring.

Breezing in on the same blast of cold air to grab something quick, warm and comforting are a melange of college students, business folks, even hockey moms with tots in tow. There's just enough room in this upscale deli atmosphere for everyone to feel neighborly. Fill your plate, settle in at one of the hand-painted wooden tables and peruse a Stone Soup storybook (yes, the restaurant's name comes from this classic fairy tale). But be sure to wrap up a slice of nut-grain bread to take home--it may be a while before you see it here again.

Baked Breaded Tofu Cutlets

4 SERVINGS LACTO

1 lb. firm or extra-firm tofu
1/3 cup wheat germ
1 tsp. salt-free seasoning mix
1/2 tsp. salt
3/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt
2 Tbs. soy mayonnaise or reduced-fat
mayonnaise
1 1/2 Tbs. pickle relish
2 tsp. Dijon mustard

PREHEAT OVEN TO 450 [degrees] F. Cut tofu into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Blot well with clean towel or several layers of paper towels, then cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips.

Combine wheat germ, seasoning mix and salt on a plate and lightly bread tofu sticks. Arrange breaded tofu on lightly oiled nonstick baking sheet. Bake until the cutlets are golden and firm, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine remaining ingredients in small bowl and stir well. Serve cutlets with sauce for a topping.

PER SERVING: 255 CAL.; 23G PROT.; 13G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 16G CARB.; 5MG CHOU.; 426M SOD.; 2G FIBER

Address: 211 College St., Burlington, Vt.

Phone: (802) 862-7616

Hours: Monday thru Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p,.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday: closed

Menu: 95 percent vegetarian; 50 percent vegan

Prices: Steam table buffet and salad bar: $4.85 per lb.; sandwiches: $4 to $5.50

Dress: Casual

Alcohol: No

Seats: 35

Credit cards: No

Reservations: No

Carrie Handy is a freelance writer living in St. Albans, VT.