These irresistible egg- and dairy-free desserts really TAKE THE CAKE

Vegetarian Times, May, 1999 by Richard Pierce

Cake is a universal symbol of celebration. And these five desserts that rely on neither eggs nor dairy will enable you to launch your festivities both healthfully and deliciously.

The challenge of making a nondairy, eggless cake is to produce a baked good that's still appealing. This sort of cake will not have the texture of one that utilizes milk, eggs, white sugar and refined flour, but it will be light, moist and flavorful if you use the right alternative ingredients. With one exception, these cakes are made with equal parts of whole-wheat pastry flour and unbleached white flour. Pastry flour is made from soft winter wheat, which is lighter in color and texture than hard wheat and contains less gluten. Cakes and muffins can be made using 100 percent pastry flour, but I've added unbleached white flour to give the cakes a little more substance. Once you master the basic recipe, try experimenting with the ratio of white flour to pastry flour to see what works best for you. If you are sensitive to wheat, try substituting spelt flour for the wheat flour. Spelt is related to wheat, but its genetic makeup is such that often it can be tolerated by those with wheat allergies.

A combination of baking powder and baking soda acts as a leavener, taking the place of eggs. Select a nonaluminum baking powder because those with sodium aluminum sulfate can cause allergic reactions in some people. The powder should also be double-acting, meaning that it creates gas bubbles when it first comes into contact with a liquid, and then again when heated. These bubbles create air pockets that give baked goods a lighter texture. Baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate, creates gas bubbles when it comes in contact with acid and liquid. Since baking soda is not double-acting, a batter containing it should be put into the oven right away. If you use too much baking powder and/or baking soda, the cake may rise too quickly and subsequently fall while cooling.

I prepared an emulsion made from flaxseeds (available at natural food stores) to serve as a binding agent; it also makes eggless baked goods moist. Flaxseeds are an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E. It is important to store them in the refrigerator or freezer since the oil they contain can easily become rancid. Oil is also an essential binding agent in cakes--I use canola because it's light and almost tasteless.

Deep-colored and full-flavored pure maple syrup is my sweetener of choice. Be sure to buy a high-quality organic syrup for the best flavor. You're guaranteed to get a rich-tasting baked good if you pair maple syrup with a flavoring such as pure vanilla extract. Orange, almond and other extracts can also add an interesting flavor, but use them with a light hand since their impact can be quite intense.

Whether you make my rich Carrot Cake, fluffy Spice Cake or dark-chocolate cake, the next egg- and dairy-free dessert you bake will send the message that you definitely can have your cake and eat it too.

Basic Cake

10 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This recipe makes a fabulous snack or not-too-rich dessert. For even more flavor, serve with fresh berries.

1 Tbs. flaxseeds
3/4 cup soy milk
3/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
3/4 cup unbleached white flour
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup maple syrup
6 Tbs. canola oil
1 Tbs. pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 tsp. cider vinegar
Rice Syrup Glaze (optional; see recipe)

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 [degrees] F. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan. In coffee grinder or small food processor, grind flaxseeds. Transfer to blender along with 1/4 cup soy milk; let mixture soak 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in large bowl, sift both flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt.

To mixture in blender, add maple syrup, oil, vanilla extract, cider vinegar and remaining 1/2 cup soy milk and blend thoroughly. Gradually add maple syrup mixture to flour mixture, mixing well with wooden spoon.

Pour batter into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Bake until cake pulls away from sides of pan and is firm with a little spring to the touch, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes in pan.

To remove from pan, run knife around edge of pan and turn cake out onto wire rack. If desired, using pastry brush, spread warm Rice Syrup Glaze over cake.

PER SLICE: 267 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 9 G TOTAL FAT (1 G SAT. FAT); 456 CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 299 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER

Rice Syrup Glaze

MAKES 1/4 CUP DAIRY-FREE (30)

Quick and simple, this glaze adds a nice gloss and a touch of sweetness to both cakes and muffins.

2 Tbs. unfiltered apple juice
2 Tbs. rice syrup
1/8 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 tsp. kudzu (see glossary, p. 111)

IN SMALL SAUCEPAN, combine apple juice, rice syrup and vanilla extract. Heat mixture over low heat for 3 minutes.

In cup, dissolve kudzu in 1 tablespoon water, then whisk into apple juice mixture. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Use glaze while warm.

PER RECIPE: 130 CAL.; 0 G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 35G CARB.; 0 CHOL; 50 MG SOD.; 0 FIBER