The Rice Revolution - rice nutrition and cookery

Vegetarian Times, Sept, 1999 by Susan Jane Cheney

Here's everything you need to know about this versatile grain

If you still think of rice as white, bland and boring, you probably haven't checked out your supermarket's rice section in a while. The quality and variety may just shock you. Beyond white, which is available in many types and flavors, you'll find others in a kaleidoscope of earthy hues--amber, red, gold and black--plus an assortment of shapes and sizes.

Grown on almost every continent, rice is the staff of life for more than half the world's population, yet for some reason, it has never been an integral part of the American meal. Our consumption is increasing, however, especially as we embrace international cuisines like Thai, Japanese and Latin, which feature the grain. Adding rice to our national diet not only reaps flavor benefits, but nutritional ones as well. As the rest of the world has known for centuries, rice, in all its variations, is deliciously versatile and can add an intriguing taste and texture to many meals.

Whole-grain rice doesn't contain a significant amount of protein, but its amino acid profile is excellent and the protein it does have is high-quality and readily accessible to the body. This rice is also rich in fiber and B vitamins and contains substantial amounts of vitamin E, phosphorus, potassium and iron. Refined or not, all rice is low in sodium and fat and gluten-free, making it easily digestible and a good option for anyone allergic to wheat.

There are thousands of varieties of rice grown worldwide, yet only a few different kinds are sold commercially. To set the record straight, all rice starts out brown. The grain is harvested in its hull, a tough, inedible covering; removing it reveals whole brown kernels. Refinement is the process by which the kernels are stripped of their husk, bran and germ to achieve a pristine and polished whiteness--leaving only the endosperm and very little else in the way of nutrition. Refined rice is sometimes enriched after the fact with vitamins and minerals, but the amounts added back are lower than those removed from the original grain, so enriched rice is lower in protein, vitamin E, magnesium, potassium and phosphorous. Parboiled or converted rice, developed centuries ago in Asia, fares a bit better health-wise. Before hulling, the grains are steamed under pressure, which forces vitamins and minerals near the outside of the kernels into the center, saving much of the nutritional value.

Regardless of color, all rice is classified into one of three categories determined by its length relative to width, and its texture after cooking. Long-grain rice is three to five times longer than it is wide. A starch called amylose keeps the cooked grains from clinging together and creates the characteristic fluffy texture. Because of this quality, long-grain varieties are ideal for pilafs, stir-fries and salads. Short-grain rice contains a high proportion of amylopectin starch, which gives the stubby, round kernels a sticky consistency. Medium-grain rice, about twice as long as it is wide, has a fairly equal share of amylose and amylopectin. The grains, however, tend to be more sticky than fluffy when cooked. Medium- and short-grain varieties are perfect for loaves, patties, vegetable stuffings and puddings.

STORAGE AND PREPARATION

When shopping for rice, buy from a store with a high volume that is more likely to have a rapid turnover and opt for organic (cultivated without pesticides or chemicals) whenever possible. Store raw rice in its unopened package in a cool, dry place. Once opened, transfer rice to an airtight container. The natural oils in unrefined varieties make them more susceptible to spoilage than white rice. Brown rice keeps two to three months at room temperature; refrigerate or freeze it for longer storage.

There is no reason to rinse domestically grown rice (check packaging to find out), unless a recipe specifies to do so. Imported varieties or rice bought from bulk bins, however, benefit from rinsing to remove dust and grit. Rinse rice under cool running water until the water runs clear or soak it in a bowl with enough water to cover, stirring the rice and changing the water until it looks clear. Drain thoroughly in a mesh strainer or colander. (Never rinse enriched white rice, or you'll wash off the added nutrients, which are applied in solution.)

MAKING PERFECT RICE

Bad experiences with lumpy, gluey rice may have turned you off to anything but instant rice that you boil in a bag. But the following tips will take the guesswork out of cooking rice.

The best cooking technique is a matter of opinion, and there are as many favored methods as there are varieties of the grain. Simmering or "steaming" is probably the most common. Combine rice with about twice as much water and a pinch of salt in a saucepan, bring to a boil, cover tightly and turn the heat as low as possible. Simmer white rice for 15 minutes, brown for 40. Remove the pan from the heat and let it stand, still covered, for at least 10 minutes. The liquid should be completely absorbed and the grains tender. Soaking rice for several hours beforehand will reduce the cooking time. Toasting rice in a dry skillet for 1 to 2 minutes first will enhance its naturally nutty flavor.