Looking Good - eye care

Vegetarian Times, Sept, 1999 by Paula Hunt

Natural remedies for preventing puffy eyes, dark circles and fine lines

Bags, wrinkles, dark circles aren't life-threatening, but still, you'd rather not have them staring back at you in the mirror. With little fat and no thick collagen underneath, the sensitive skin around your eyes is the thinnest on your body. In some places, it's only 0.4 millimeters--about the thickness of four sheets of paper. No cream or pill can erase eye area beauty bummers, but there are natural ways to reduce their appearance and help prevent them in the first place.

BAG THE BAGS

Puffy eyes (or bags) are the number one complaint of clients who book the For Your Eyes Only skin treatment at Haven, a day spa in New York City. Actually just buildup of fluid, undereye bags often signal that you're not getting the requisite seven to nine hours of sleep a night, according to Lauri Aesoph, a naturopathic physician and the author of Your Natural Health Makeover (Prentice Hall Press, 1998). Sleep is when your body rejuvenates. Blood flow and circulation increase, eliminating waste and delivering vital nutrients, like oxygen, to your skin. If you're getting plenty of shut-eye and still have puffy eyes, the culprit may be allergies, too much salt in your diet, poor circulation, hormonal changes, hereditary factors or simply the aging process.

For an at-home "anti-puff" remedy, Haven owners Audra Senkus and Gabrielle Ophals suggest applying a cold compress of rosemary tea to increase circulation, which helps reduce swelling around the eyes. Make tea by bringing a half cup of fresh rosemary and a quart of water to a boil. Steep for 20 minutes, then strain and chill. Soak a washcloth in the tea, ring out extra liquid anal place over eyes for 15 to 20 minutes, once a day, as needed.

Another circulation-boosting treatment is acupressure. Pratima Raichur, a naturopathic physician and the author of Absolute Beauty: Radiant Skin and Inner Harmony Through the Ancient Secrets of Ayurveda (HarperCollins, 1997), recommends this easy exercise that you can also do every day. Close your eyes and gently press your ring finger underneath one eye, moving from the inside corner to the outside corner. Do this 10 to 15 times. Then repeat on the other eye.

To minimize the appearance of bags, plump up skin with moisturizer. New York City-based holistic beauty expert Kat James advises using one that contains vitamin C, an antioxidant that protects skin cells from damage and supports collagen production; licorice (or fennel) extract, an anti-inflammatory; and stabilized oxygen, a form of hydrogen peroxide that promotes circulation.

HIDE THOSE CIRCLES

As with bags, dark circles--which are simply veins showing through the thin skin--often result from lack of sleep. Other causes can be seasonal allergies, poor circulation, hormonal imbalances or genetics.

The best fix for dark circles is camouflage. For the most natural look, James recommends using a creamy stick concealer that is the same shade or one shade lighter than your skin tone. First, apply foundation. Then dot on concealer while lowering your chin slightly as you look into a mirror, bringing circles into focus. Start at the deepest part of the shadow using a small brush (like a lipstick brush). Use your pinkie or ring finger to blend.

PROACTIVE PROTECTION

Fine lines and wrinkles are an inevitable part of the aging process, but that's no excuse to throw in your hat or sunglasses. Sun is your worst enemy, so proactive protection is key. "The only true antiwrinkle products [are sunscreens]," says Paula Begoun, author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me (Beginning Press, 1999). Use a full-spectrum SPF 15 sunscreen (or moisturizer) with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide daily. And wear UV-blocking sunglasses faithfully to prevent squint lines, advises Ronald R. Brancaccio, M.D., a clinical professor of dermatology at the New York University School of Medicine.

In addition, apply a moisturizer around your eyes--even if you have oily skin--since this skin dries out easily. Brancaccio recommends using a product with an antioxidant vitamin, such as C or E, which promotes cell turnover and helps skin retain its suppleness.

HANDLE WITH CARE

Be gentle when applying or removing eye products because as you age, the skin around the eye area doesn't "bounce back" like it used to. Rubbing and pulling will stretch the skin and reduce its elasticity. When .treating the skin around your eyes, pat gently using your ring, middle or pinkie finger because they are not as strong as your index finger and therefore less likely to cause damage.

Always treat the area around your eyes with care. Never use toner as an eye makeup remover, even if it's made with witch hazel or labeled alcohol-free, it can irritate the sensitive eye area. "Use a product for removing makeup that has ingredients known to be great for the skin, like apricot kernel oil, sweet almond oil or walnut oil," says James. "After you use the remover, sweep a cotton ball over your eye lids once with a moisturizing `untoner' of pure aloe vera juice (available in natural food stores), straight from the refrigerator."