the care and handling of soy

Vegetarian Times, April, 2000 by Robin Robertson

A guide to using and storing everything from miso to tofu

It's true, the soybean has never exactly glittered with star quality. It's seldom an impulse buy at the supermarket. But now that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is recommending that we eat 25 grams of soy protein per day to reduce risk of heart disease, this humble legume deserves a place in the spotlight. People who once snubbed tofu are realizing what Eastern cultures have known for ages: that soy is a "miracle" food. In addition to its vast and varied culinary potential, recent studies have shown that compounds called isoflavones, which are found exclusively in soy, lower cholesterol levels, relieve some symptoms of menopause, help in the treatment of osteoporosis and play a critical role in preventing many forms of cancer.

With soy foods finally entering the mainstream, there's bound to be a lot of confusion surrounding how to handle that large block of tofu or thin slab of tempeh. You may also wonder if you can freeze tofu or how long an open container of soy milk will keep in the refrigerator. To answer these and other questions, we've created this comprehensive guide to the care and handling of soy foods, including tofu, tempeh, soy milk, textured vegetable protein (TVP), soy sauce, miso and, of course, the distinguished soybean itself.

If you are new to soy, take time to explore the incomparable versatility of these miracle foods. Used properly, soy products can open the door to new dimensions in your vegetarian cooking while providing amazing health benefits. (For recipes using these soy foods, see related article "American Classics," on p. 44.)

Tofu

Also known as bean curd, tofu is a cheeselike food made from cooked soybeans. Because its neutral taste allows it to absorb the flavors of surrounding ingredients, tofu may be the most versatile food on the planet. It can be prepared in soups, sauces, entrees, desserts and even beverages; it can be fried, broiled, grilled, marinated or pureed. Tofu is available soft, firm and extra-firm in both low-fat and regular renditions. There are also ready-to-eat baked marinated versions ranging in flavor from Italian to Asian. The texture and taste of tofu can vary greatly from brand to brand, so experiment until you find the ones you prefer.

Fresh organic tofu is sold in vacuum-packed tubs in the refrigerator section of natural food stores and many large supermarkets. "Regular" tofu, or Chinese bean curd--as opposed to the Japanese-style silken variety--is the type usually called for in recipes. Firm or extra-firm is the best choice for stir-fries, cutlets, sautes and other dishes that require a sturdy ingredient that holds its shape during cooking. Soft tofu is more delicate and better suited for dips, dressings, sauces and desserts.

All tofu is highly perishable and must be kept refrigerated; check the expiration date before purchasing. (It's a good idea to avoid buying the loose water-packed tofu found in large crocks or open buckets, which are subject to contamination.) Once opened, it can be refrigerated in a tightly sealed plastic or glass container with water to cover. If you change the water daily, tofu will last up to 1 week. Fresh tofu should have a mild "beany" smell; a sour aroma indicates it has spoiled.

If you need to achieve a firmer texture for a recipe, regular tofu can be pressed before using it to remove excess liquid. This allows for better absorption of marinades and sauces. To press tofu, place the block between the folds of a clean kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels and weight it down with a plate topped with a 1-pound can for at least 30 minutes.

Freezing tofu changes its texture dramatically--many say for the better--making it chewy and better able to absorb surrounding flavors. To freeze tofu, simply drain it, then wrap tightly. It will keep in the freezer up to 3 months. Once thawed, squeeze out any water and break it into small pieces.

Japanese-style silken tofu, like regular tofu, is available in soft, firm and extra-firm varieties, but this type is primarily used to make sauces, puddings or anything requiring a creamy texture. The silken variety is packaged in shelf-stable aseptic containers, which can be kept unrefrigerated until opened. Silken tofu does not need pressing, since you rely on its water content to produce a creamy texture. Unlike regular tofu, this type does not respond well to freezing.

Miso

A fermented soybean paste with the texture of creamy peanut butter, miso is often used for Japanese soups and to enrich sauces, salad dressings and other dishes. The paste is highly concentrated and a little goes a long way. Soybeans may be fermented into a wide range of flavors, so miso varieties vary greatly. Light misos, which are pale yellow or creamy beige, are aged only a few months and have a mellow, sweet taste. Longer-aged red, amber or brown varieties have stronger, more intense flavors. Look for containers of organic miso in the refrigerator section of natural food stores. Both light and dark varieties keep well up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Freezing miso is not recommended.