saving face - adult acne

Vegetarian Times, August, 2000 by Valerie Latona

Goodbye adult acne, hello flawless skin

A month before my wedding, my skin was flawless--not a pimple or blemish in sight. Ten days and a ton of last-minute stress later, the skin around my jaw erupted. It never fails. In the weeks leading up to an important event, my normally clear face breaks out as if I were going through puberty.

An estimated 40 to 50 percent of men and women over 20 suffer from the persistent pimples on the face, upper back and chest that are the primary symptoms of a condition called adult acne. These areas are susceptible because they have the highest concentrations of oil-producing sebaceous glands, which normally pump oil to the skin to keep it hydrated. In acne-prone people, however, pores get dogged (due to poor diet, stress, hormones and oil-laden skin-care products), and the oil backs up, bacteria targets those pores, and a pimple forms.

This process begins long before you notice that tiny lump forming under your skin. In healthy skin, dead skin cells are normally carried out through the pores (the ends of the hair follicles) by sebum--a waxy, oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands that also serves as the skin's built-in moisturizer. But for those who suffer from acne, these cells dump together and get stuck in the pore along with the oil. And to make matters worse, this back-up attracts bacteria from the hair follicles (that absorb dirt and grease from the environment), which then multiplies within the pore.

When this blockage reaches the surface of the skin, you'll develop a blackhead. Just below the skin's surface, it becomes a whitehead. If it remains deep under the surface of the skin and causes a large swollen bump that feels like a pebble, it's called a cyst. "If not treated in time, the pimple will swell, become inflamed and possibly get infected," explains David Bank, M.D., director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic and Laser Surgery, in Mount Kisco, N.Y., and author of Beautiful Skin (Adams Media, 2000). Pimples that become infected can create serious problems and so must be treated immediately, while the occasional zit is simply unsightly. Either way, there are just as many treatments to get rid of those embarrassing red marks as there are underlying factors that cause them.

1 Cosmetic Clogging

If you've recently changed your foundation, powder or moisturizer and are suddenly breaking out, check the ingredients. "Many oil-based creams, lotions and cosmetics can clog the pores from the outside," says James Baral, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. If you've experienced outbreaks before, Baral recommends steering clear of products with essential oils, vitamin E, petroleum, mineral oil and safflower oil--all of which are comedogenic, or pore-clogging.

Bank believes that even leave-in hair products like conditioners, mousses and gels can block the pores. "The oil from them may trigger outbreaks along your hairline," he explains. His advice: If you're breaking out, skip the leave-in products and make sure to thoroughly rinse out conditioner while in the shower. And in general, when it comes to beauty products, chose ones specifically labeled oil-free or non-comedogenic.

2 Breakout Binges

Not definitive link has been made between consuming chocolate, caffeine and fried foods and acne, but many experts still believe that limiting or avoiding these foods, as well as eating a balanced diet in general, will help keep your skin clear. In fact, Robert S. Ivker, D.O., president of the American Holistic Medical Association and author of The Complete Self-Care Guide to Holistic Medicine (Putnam, 1999), believes that a diet high in sugar and highly refined carbohydrates and low in protein and vegetables is often a contributing factor to acne. He says that high levels of dietary sugar weaken the immune system, enabling bacteria in the skin to spread. In addition, a vegetarian diet is more likely than a meat-based one to be high in essential fatty acids and low in saturated fats. This is important because these fatty acids thin the oil secreted through the skin and make it less liable to clog the pores than oil containing saturated fat.

Supplements can also help. In particluar, vitamins A, B-complex, C and E and the mineral zinc keep the pores clear by boosting the immune system and helping to maintain healthy skin. Consult your doctor or a nutritionist for proper dosages.

3 Hands Off

Do you cradle,the phone against your chin when you re talking or touch your face frequently? If so, these habits may be causing you to break out. Telephones and hands easily transfer oil, dirt and bacteria to your skin, which in turn can cause acne. "Don't touch your face if you don't need to," advises Bank, "and when you're on the phone, hold the receiver slightly away from your cheek." Bank also suggests changing your pillowcase weekly and disinfecting your telephone receiver several times a week with rubbing alcohol.

4 Chill Out

Never underestimate the effects of stress. Stress hormones can wreak havoc on your immune system and contribute to adult acne. "If you have a predisposition to acne, stress can make it worse or cause a flare-up," explains Baral. It's been estimated that as many as 50 percent of professional women--who experience a great deal of stress juggling work and family--experience outbreaks triggered by stress. When people are going through problems with their relationships, their jobs or with their family, acne becomes exacerbated. So if you think stress is your problem, try incorporating stress management techniques--like yoga, tai chi or meditation--into your daily life. Even regular exercise like walking or biking can help relieve anxiety and tension.