Good Fortune Long Life - Recipe

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 2000 by Grace Young

Celebrating Chinese New Year with traditional dishes

Chinese New Year's Feast

Steamed Egg Custard
Stir-Fried Garliv Lettuce
Buddha's Delight
Stir-Fried Five-Spice Tofu and Vegetables
(*)Steamed Rice
Sesame Balls
(*)Fresh Fruits

((*)Recipe Not Included)

Picture this New Year's celebration: Generations of family gathered under one roof, happy and respectful, their clothes bright and new. The immaculate house is adorned with branches of peach blossoms, fruit trees, stacks of small red envelopes and bowls of tangerines and oranges. If this doesn't sound like any December 31 you've ever spent, there's a reason for that.

In Chinese culture, New Year's is the single most important holiday. This year, the holiday falls on February 5, the first day of the Year of the Dragon. Of course, the Chinese calendar is different from ours--it's based on the moon, not the sun. And this year isn't 2000--it's 4698. For Chinese people, New Year's is about reunion and renewal, a time to honor the sacredness of the family and to reaffirm ties with relatives. In China, you always return home to pay respects to your elders and ancestors, no matter how great the distance. Everyone greets one another with "Gung Hay Fat Choy" or, literally, "Congratulations Prosperity." For the Chinese, there's no greater happiness than longevity, blessings to the household, wealth, eminence and endless friendship.

Children wake up on New Year's morning to find two tangerines, two oranges and a pair of lucky money envelopes, called lysee (lie-SEE), by their pillows--all symbols of good luck. Elder family members tuck money into the beautiful little red envelopes, which are decorated with exquisite designs and gold symbols that are ancient expressions of long life, gratitude, peace and blessings. The color red represents happiness and good luck.

In the evening, Chinese families follow the tradition of having Jai (ji) for dinner at home, the Buddhist vegetarian dish also known as Buddha's Delight. Earlier in the day, the kitchen is laid out with bowls of cloud ears, dried oysters, black moss, dried lily buds, dried bean curd sticks, cellophane noodles and Chinese dried mushrooms--all soaking in cold water. Each ingredient for Jai has meaning and symbolism, from the wish for more children in the coming year to blessings and rising fortunes for the household. Stir-fried and steamed dishes are also prepared, along with fresh steamed rice and perhaps a fancy soup.

Every traditional Chinese household also has a chuun hup (tray of togetherness), a teak or rosewood box with eight compartments filled with delicacies that symbolize the sweetness of life. Items you will find in the box include kumquats for golden luck; Candied lotus seeds, symbolizing the wish for more sons; watermelon seeds for more children; chocolate gold coins for golden wealth; candied lotus root symbolizing endless friendship; and coconut for good relations between fathers and sons.

Each region in China celebrates the New Year with dishes that represent its unique traditional cuisine. The following recipes reflect the mastery of the Cantonese home cook. Enjoy their complex tastes, textures, aromas and flavors. And who knows? Perhaps a touch of Chinese good fortune will rub off on you.

Steamed Egg Custard (Zing Dan)

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

OVO (30)

This is one of the humblest of Cantonese dishes and one of the noblest custards. A couple of tips will ensure perfection. Boiled then cooled water is one of the requirements for achieving a delicate, smooth custard. Also, do not allow the water in the steamer to get above a bare simmer, and be sure to remove the custard as soon as it sets. Heat that is too strong or over-cooking will result in a spongy texture.

4 large eggs
2 Tbs. vegetable broth
1 Tbs. soy sauce
1 tsp. vegetable oil
Cilantro sprigs and chopped scallions
  for garnish

IN SMALL SAUCEPAN, bring 3/4 cup water to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool until tepid, about 7 minutes.

Crack eggs into medium bowl and whisk well. Stir in tepid water and broth. Pour mixture into 9-inch shallow heat-proof bowl.

Bring small amount of water to a boil over high heat in steamer large enough to fit bowl without touching sides of steamer. Carefully place bowl in steamer, cover, reduce heat to medium and steam just until custard is set and barely trembles when bowl is touched, 10 to 13 minutes. Check water level occasionally and replenish as needed with boiling water. Carefully remove bowl from steamer. Pour soy sauce over custard.

In small skillet, heat oil over high heat until hot but not smoking. Carefully drizzle hot oil over custard (you will hear it crackle). Garnish with cilantro and scallions and serve at once.

PER SERVING: 89 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 1G CARB.; 213MG CHOL.; 577MG SOD.; 0 FIBER

Stir-Fried Garlic Lettuce (Shoon Chow Saang Choy)

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

DAIRY-FREE (30)

For some reason; Cantonese people are extremely fond of iceberg lettuce, even though it doesn't even begin to measure up to most other Chinese vegetables' nutritional profiles. The lettuce attains sweetness from the soy sauce, sesame oil and rice wine and takes only 3 minutes to stir-fry.