Out of Africa - Tunisian food - Recipe

Vegetarian Times, July, 2000 by Patsy Jamieson

A simple summer menu celebrates the exotic flavors of Tunisia

tunisian menu

Assorted black and green olives

Tunisian Composed Salad(*) Grilled Vegetable Salad(*) Cumin-Scented Carrot Salad(*) Grilled Semolina Flatbreads(*) Harissa Dipping Sauce(*)

Couscous-Almond Pudding(*) Fresh melon slices and dates Tunisian Tea(*)

(*) Recipe included

It's hard enough to find Tunisian food listed on a menu in America, let alone an entire restaurant dedicated to it. That's because most American chefs who dabble in North African cooking tend to label everything as Moroccan. But Tunisian cooking is something quite distinct from Moroccan cuisine, as a recent trip to this small country made clear. Its bold, earthy flavors are wonderfully exotic and worth experimenting with.

Tucked into the southern shore of the Mediterranean basin, Tunisia has always been a melting pot of cultures, and its cuisine reflects a rich and varied history, blending Berber, Roman, Arabic, Turkish, Moorish, Phoenician and French influences. Though Tunisia and Morocco share many culinary traditions-owing largely to their Berber populations--there are also vast differences. The Berbers gave both cultures couscous, but in Tunisia the grain is highly seasoned rather than steamed plain, and often spiked with harissa, a fiery-hot paste-like condiment. In Tunisia, it's also customary to mix harissa with olive oil and spread it over bread (olive oil is used much more extensively there than in Morocco).

In addition to couscous and harissa, Tunisian cuisine celebrates fresh vegetables and fruits. Although fragrant stews of meat and vegetables served with couscous are the country's most popular dishes, Tunisian salads are distinctive. During my visit I discovered an interesting variety of healthful and delicious salads. Some of my favorites include michwiya (MISH-u-we), a blend of rich-tasting grilled vegetables; a carrot salad made with delicately spiced cooked carrots; and a traditional composed Tunisian salad, which is reminiscent of a salade nicoise.

I have included these delectable salads, plus recipes for semolina flatbread and harissa sauce, in a wonderfully exotic yet easy-to-make menu. Since most of the preparation can be done in advance, this meal is perfect for casual summer entertaining. There is one lastminute detail, however. Just before serving the buffet, fire up the grill and treat your guests to flatbreads fresh off the grill. I guarantee that these addictive breads won't last long. The harissa sauce, which actually tastes more rich and complex than fiery, is served as a dipping sauce for the breads and a complement to the salads. Linger over the rich, complex flavors and finish the meal, Tunisian-style, with fresh fruit, a sweet couscous pudding and a cup of refreshing mint tea.

Harissa Sauce

MAKES 1 CUP EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

Harissa sauce is easy to make, and homemade sauce tastes far better than commercial versions. A food processor is handy for pureeing the softened peppers, but in order for it to work efficiently, you need to make a large enough batch of sauce. You won't regret having a supply of potent harissa on hand because you can use this versatile sauce to spice up North African soups, vegetable stews and salads or as a dipping sauce for bread (see below). The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

12 dried New Mexico chilies (3 oz.)
I tsp. caraway seeds
1 tsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
8 medium cloves garlic, peeled and
  crushed
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Trim stems from chilies and shake out seeds. Heat large heavy skillet, such as cast-iron, over medium-low heat. Add chilies in batches and cook just until fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds per side. Tear chilies into pieces and place in medium bowl. Add hot water to cover and let stand until softened, about 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat small heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add caraway, coriander and cumin seeds and cook until fragrant and popping, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl and cool. Grind spices in spice mill (such as coffee grinder reserved for spices) or blender. Set aside.

3. In mortar and pestle or with side of chef's knife, mash garlic and salt into a paste. Drain chilies and transfer to food processor. Add ground spices and mashed garlic and process until mixture forms a paste, stopping several times to scrape down sides of work bowl. With machine running, drizzle in oil and 1/4 cup hot water and process until smooth.

PER TSP: 12 CAL.; 0 PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 0 CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 45MG SOD.; 0 FIBER

VARIATION: Harissa Dipping Sauce: Dilute Harissa Sauce with an equal quantity of water and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

Grilled Semolina Flatbreads

MAKES 12 EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

In Tunisia I tasted some extraordinary flatbreads made with semolina. I have adapted the idea to an American kitchen, supplementing some of the semolina with all-purpose flour to make the dough easier to work with. Serve the breads warm, accompanied by Harissa Dipping Sauce (see above). Cooled flatbreads will keep wrapped in plastic for up to 2 days at room temperature or in the freezer for up to 3 months. (To reheat, spread flatbreads on a baking sheet and warm in a 300 [degrees] F oven for 10 to 20 minutes.) Ingredient note: Semolina is made by grinding the endosperm of hard durum wheat. It has a texture similar to fine cornmeal and can be found in natural food stores, specialty food stores and some supermarkets. Sometimes you will find it labeled as pasta flour.