Taking sides - vegetarian/Thanksgiving/NativeAmerican menus

Vegetarian Times, Nov, 2000 by Peter A. Cervoni

TEMPTING NATIVE AMERICAN DISHES THAT WILL STEAL THE SHOW

I've always thought of side dishes as stars in the making, and what better time than the holiday season, with all of its gatherings, to move that supporting cast of vegetables, legumes and grains to center stage.

In creating the recipes for this article, I turned to our nation's culinary roots for inspiration. As executive chef at Angelica Kitchen in New York City, I had the privilege to work with Native American farmers while preparing a special Thanksgiving Day menu for the restaurant last year. I explored the foods of many indigenous cultures and found that native people across this continent enjoyed a diet based on fruits, vegetables, nuts and grains. And the traditional foods that we cook with during this season--winter squash, beans, dried corn, fresh cranberries, currants, apples, sunflower seeds and pine nuts--were representative of the foods they dined on.

I also learned that Native Americans have been doing for centuries what many cooks--myself included--are trying to accomplish today: supporting sustainable agriculture by using locally grown organic produce. As this collection of recipes demonstrates, autumn is a wonderful time to celebrate Native American foods. From Sweet Potato-Shiitake Mushroom Hash to Roasted Acorn Squash Stuffed with White Polenta, these Thanksgiving side dishes have what it takes to play a leading role in any meal.

Sweet Potato-Shiitake Mushroom Hash

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

This dish is simple to prepare, but the final product has a complex taste. The combination of flavors is intense: sweet from the potatoes and parsnips, earthy from the shiitakes and savory from the leeks and sage. Balsamic vinegar and maple syrup marry beautifully to form a rich glaze. And there's no need to peel the sweet potatoes--just be sure to scrub them well.

1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup pure maple syrup
1/3 cup packed chopped fresh sage
1 Tbs. salt
1 1/2 tsp. cracked black pepper
9 medium cloves garlic, minced
3 large leeks, (white and light green
  parts) halved lengthwise, rinsed
  well and diced
2 lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled if desired,
  and diced
1 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
  and diced
8 oz. parsnips, peeled and diced
  (1 2/3 cups)
8 oz. turnips, peeled and diced
  (1 1/2 cups)

1. Preheat oven to 400 [degrees] F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

2. In small bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, maple syrup, sage, salt and pepper until well combined.

3. In large bowl, combine garlic, leeks, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, parsnips and turnips. Add oil-vinegar mixture and toss until well coated. Divide vegetable mixture between prepared sheets. Roast until vegetables are tender, about 1 hour, rotating sheets halfway through cooking. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 306 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 10G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 55G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 838MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Wild Rice and Grain Pilaf

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

Wild rice is actually not a grain but the seed of an aquatic plant that has been harvested for hundreds of years by Native Americans in the Northwest and upper Midwest. Amaranth and quinoa are ancient grains used by the native peoples of South America. Together they make a great-tasting, high-protein pilaf, which is rounded out with sunflower seeds and sweetened with currants.

5 1/2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
  or water
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
1 cup uncooked wild rice
1 cup uncooked quinoa
1 1/2 Tbs. olive oil
2 medium carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 large onion, diced
1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
1 Tbs. salt
1 1/2 tsp. cracked black pepper
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/2 cup uncooked amaranth
  (see glossary, p. 123)
1 cup dried currants
1 bay leaf
2 Tbs. minced fresh dill
1 Tbs. minced fresh tarragon
1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme

1. In large saucepan, bring broth to a simmer over medium-low heat.

2. Meanwhile, in small, dry skillet, cook sunflower seeds over medium heat until lightly toasted, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to small plate and set aside.

3. In sieve, combine wild rice and quinoa. Rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Set aside.

4. In large, heavy pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add carrots, celery, onion, ginger, 1/2 tablespoon salt, pepper and coriander and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes. Add wild rice, quinoa and amaranth and cook, stirring, until grains are fragrant, about 2 minutes.

5. Add currants, bay leaf, dill, tarragon, thyme and remaining 1/2 tablespoon salt. Stir in simmering broth, increase heat and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer until wild rice is tender, 40 to 55 minutes.

6. Remove and discard bay leaf; drain pilaf if necessary. Stir in toasted sunflower seeds and serve hot.

PER SERVING: 384 CAL.; 12G PROT.; 9G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 55G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 954MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Kale with Sauteed Apples and Cranberry Vinaigrette

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

The cranberry vinaigrette tastes delicious with kale, which you can find in abundance this time of year.