a night at the improv - Brief Article

Vegetarian Times, Oct, 2000 by Janet Charatan

Culinary shortcuts and secrets that cookbooks never tell you

Don't Strain Yourself

If you find yourself without a needed sieve or colander, create a makeshift one by poking holes in an aluminum pie plate with an ice pick or a knife. Your homemade strainer will work fine for vegetables and small amounts of rice or pasta.

A Steamy Subject

If you don't have a vegetable steamer, it's easy to make one. Just place the food to be steamed in a footed metal colander, set the colander in a pot filled with about two inches of boiling water and cover the pot tightly.

Balancing Act

When you're baking lots of pies, cakes or casseroles for a party, you can't have enough cooling racks. If you come up short, make your own by using empty 28-ounce cans (such as from canned tomatoes), and removing the bottom lid with a can opener. Set your hot dishes or pans directly on the cans. Use two, three or four, depending on the size of the pan.

On a Roll

There's more than one way to roll out pie dough. If a rolling pin isn't handy, try using a chilled, unopened bottle of wine with straight sides. Its weight and temperature let you produce a smooth dough with very little effort.

The Pot Thickens

When sauteing vegetables or making a delicate sauce, it's helpful to have a heavy pan that heats evenly and doesn't burn the food in the spot directly over the heat source. If you lack a heavy-bottomed saucepan, use a cast-iron skillet as a "heat diffuser." Any pan set inside a cast-iron skillet and placed over gentle heat instantly becomes a piece of heavy-duty equipment.

Pastabilities

Treat your family or unexpected company to homemade ravioli at a moment's notice. The secret: packaged won ton wrappers, available from most supermarkets. Spoon a dollop of herbed goat cheese, mashed beans or any filling you like in the center of half the wrappers (1). Moisten the edges with a little beaten egg and top with another wrapper (2). Seal together with a fork, pressing out air (3). Poach in boiling water, drain and serve hot, topped with your favorite sauce.

Top This

How often does this happen? You want ripe, juicy tomatoes for a pizza topping but all you can find are tasteless, out-of-season ones. Solution: Reach for a can of plum tomatoes and try this chef's trick to freshen their taste. Drain the tomatoes, then cut each one into 2 or 3 slices. Place them in a shallow glass dish and pour orange juice on top. Refrigerate overnight, then drain, chop and sprinkle over your pizza crust with your choice of cheeses and spices.

Hints Wanted

We welcome input on your favorite kitchen tips. Send a description of your technique or shortcut to Vegetarian Times Cooking Tips, 9 Riverbend Drive, S., Stamford, CT 05907. Please include your name, address and daytime telephone number. And let us know if there are any particular cooking problems you'd like us to address in the future.

TOOL BOX

whiskful thinking

Whisks are essential for mixing and smoothing out batters, blending dry ingredients, emulsifying vinaigrettes and whipping ingredients like cream to incorporate air. These are the three main types:

1 Balloon: The largest type of whisk, this has pliant wires that loop to form a distinctive bulbous shape. It varies in length from 8 to 18 inches, though for versatility, the 14-inch one is best. When shopping, look for one that has the most wires, which will operate at maximum efficiency. The handle should be uniformly thick with the wires welded together inside it.

2 Sauce: This kitchen basic is made of a series of nine fairly rigid looped wires forming a three-dimensional pear shape. The wires are joined and held together by a long handle. It ranges in length from 8 to 18 inches; the 14-inch size is the most popular. Choose one with a moderately wide handle for the most comfortable grip.

3 Flat: This nearly flat group of looped wires is usually 12 inches long and made of stainless or tin-plated steel. It is angled slightly for mixing in shallow bowls or pans and is especially good for beating eggs and reaching around the edges of a saucepan.