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chefs tell

Vegetarian Times, March, 2001 by Richard Pierce

How to store oils and vinegars, use kudzu and make the most of leftovers

Q I sometimes have a hard time working with kudzu (or kuzu). Because it's lumpy, it doesn't always dissolve completely and it's difficult to measure. Should I start using arrowroot instead?

A Arrowroot, the powdery root of a tropical plant, can be substituted for kudzu in equal amounts. But kudzu, a starch derived from the root of a Japanese plant, is my preference. In addition to being an excellent thickener for sauces, gravies and desserts, kudzu aids digestion and treats intestinal complaints. In fact, a soothing medicinal tea made with 1 teaspoon kudzu, 1 cup water, 1 teaspoon grated ginger and 1 teaspoon tamari settles an upset digestive system.

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Here are some tips for using kudzu with good results:

* To make measuring easier and more accurate, use a coffee grinder to grind kudzu into a fine powder.

* Thoroughly dissolve kudzu in a small amount of cold water before adding it to a hot liquid.

* If there are small lumps that won't dissolve in the cold water, pour the kudzu through a fine-mesh strainer when adding it to the hot liquid.

Q Which oils, vinegars and syrups should be refrigerated and for how long?

A Before discussing the storage of oils, it's important to look briefly at the selection. Although they're a bit more expensive, I always suggest buying organic oil whenever possible. I also recommend unrefined oils, which retain a higher vitamin content and are more aromatic, flavorful and deeper in color. When buying olive oil, choose an extra-virgin, organic, cold-pressed oil. When buying other unrefined oils, look for ones that are expeller-pressed. These oils are processed at low temperatures, cleaned without chemicals or heat and pressed out with an auger or screw press. It's essential to avoid all oils that are hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated since these contain harmful synthetic fats called trans-fatty acids. Oils become rancid when exposed to excessive heat or light, so it's best to keep them in the refrigerator. Since olive oil congeals when it is cold, leave a small container out at room temperature for daily use. Oils will keep, stored airtight, in the refrigerator for several months.

When choosing a vinegar, avoid distilled vinegars, which are nothing more than acetic acid and water. White distilled vinegar is great as a nontoxic cleaning product but has no nutritional value, and it's sharp-tasting to boot. (Choose herb vinegars carefully, as some may be made with distilled vinegar.) By contrast, naturally fermented vinegars contain the unique color and taste characteristics of the plants from which they are derived; they also contain amino acids and other nutrients. I prefer unrefined, organic vinegars. My staple vinegars include apple cider vinegar, rice vinegar, balsamic vinegar and umeboshi vinegar. It's also nice to have special items like raspberry vinegar and herb vinegar on hand. Store vinegars in a tightly capped glass bottle in a cool, dark place; they will keep for at least six months.

Q Recently I looked in my vegetable bin only to find half a zucchini, several broccoli stalks and a couple of carrots. What can I do with these odds and ends?

A A lot, especially if you also have an onion and a few cloves of garlic on hand. All of these vegetables work well when cut into matchsticks and stir-fried, either alone or with cubed tofu, tempeh or seitan. Serve over pasta or leftover grains. For a creamy vegetable soup, chop leftover vegetables (2 to 3 cups), an onion and a couple of cloves of garlic. Place in a pot with 1/3 cup raw millet (or 1 cup cooked grain), a bay leaf, 1 quart water, 1 tablespoon tamari and a pinch or two of oregano and thyme. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Puree with an immersion blender or in a food processor; adjust seasonings to taste. Leftover vegetables also work well in salads. Trim off tough ends of broccoli stalks, peel and cut into matchsticks; blanch several minutes until bright green and tender. Cube zucchini or cut into matchsticks; grate carrots. Toss into a green, grain or bean salad.

Richard Pierce is an instructor at The Natural Gourmet Institute of Food and Health and a former chef at Angelica Kitchen in New York City. In 1990, he launched the Whole Foods Project to provide nutritional services for people living with life-challenging illnesses. For more info, call (718) 832-6628.

chefs tell

Vegetarian Times, March, 2001 by Richard Pierce

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