all you knead

Patsy Jamieson

Ancient flatbreads for modern times

Pita bread, tortillas and chapati may be relative newcomers to American supermarkets, but in their native lands they are almost as old as civilization itself.

When people first began harvesting grains, they were faced with the problem of how to turn them into food. One solution was to grind the grains into flour, mix it with water and bake. The flatter and thinner the bread, the more quickly and easily it could be cooked. Today these flatbreads are still enjoyed around the globe and are easier to make than you might think.

The trick is to take advantage of your food processor's speed to mix and knead the dough. In some cases, use quick-rising yeast that requires only a 20-minute rest before reshaping, instead of the usual 90 minutes. This dough is great for making small batches of flatbread, such as focaccia or Turkish pide.

A plus to making bread from scratch is that you can control exactly what goes into it. Making these flatbreads with whole grain flour adds vitamins, minerals, fiber and a delicious nutty taste. Cornmeal and semolina can also impart interesting texture and flavor.

This collection of breads comes from the Mediterranean basin, where breads are a central part of every meal. The flatbreads range from simple Middle Eastern pita to an exquisitely topped Catalan flatbread. Even the humblest meal becomes a feast when it is served with these wholesome, homemade breads.

Whole Wheat Pita Breads

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

Supermarket pita breads just can't compare with the freshly baked homemade version.

1 tsp. sugar
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. active dry yeast
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 Tbs. olive oil
2 tsp. salt
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups unbleached
  all-purpose flour

1. In large bowl, mix 1 1/4 cups lukewarm water and sugar. Sprinkle in yeast and let stand until foamy, 10 minutes. With wooden spoon, gradually beat in whole wheat four. Beat about 2 minutes. Stir in oil and salt. Gradually beat in just enough all-purpose flour until dough is too stiff to stir.

2. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead, adding just enough flour to prevent sticking, until smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can mix and knead dough in stand-up mixer fitted with paddle attachment, then dough hook.)

3. Place dough in lightly oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

4. Place baking stone (see "Baking Stones") or inverted baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to heat. Preheat oven to 500 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone for 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

5. Punch dough down. Turn out onto lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Divide dough into 8 pieces. Form each piece into a ball. Cover with kitchen towel and let rest 20 minutes.

6. On lightly floured surface, use rolling pin to roll 2 pieces of dough into 7- to 7 1/2-inch circles, slightly less than 1/4-inch thick. (Keep remaining dough pieces covered while you are working.) Place dough circles on another baking sheet.

7. Working quickly, use wide metal spatula to transfer dough circles to heated baking stone. Bake pitas until puffed and lightly browned around the edges, 5 to 6 minutes.

8. Immediately wrap baked pitas in kitchen towel to keep them warm and soft. While the first batch of pitas bakes, roll out 2 more dough circles. Continue baking and rolling pitas until all dough is used.

PER PITA: 192 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 36G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 535MG SOD.; 4G FIBER

Flaxseed Flatbreads

8 SERVINGS

Nutty flavored flaxseeds provide the nutritional benefits of omega-3 fatty acids, lignans (a type of phytoestrogen) and fiber. One of the easiest and most appealing ways to incorporate flaxseeds into your diet is to use them in yeast breads. Since flaxseeds must be ground to release their benefits, we use ground flaxseeds to replace part of the flour in the dough. A sprinkling of whole flaxseeds creates an appealing topping on this Turkish-style bread.

1/2 tsp. sugar
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. active dry yeast
1/4 cup whole flaxseeds
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 Tbs. olive oil
2 Tbs. low-fat plain yogurt
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups unbleached
  all-purpose flour
Semolina or cornmeal for dusting

Glaze and topping
  1 large egg
  4 tsp. whole flaxseeds

1. In large mixing bowl, mix 1 cup lukewarm water and sugar. Sprinkle in yeast and let stand until foamy, 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in spice grinder or blender, coarsely grind 1/4 cup flaxseeds.

3. With wooden spoon, gradually beat whole wheat flour into yeast mixture; beat about 2 minutes. Stir in ground flaxseeds, oil, yogurt and salt. Gradually beat in just enough all-purpose flour until dough is too stiff to stir.

4. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead, adding just enough flour to prevent sticking, until smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can mix and knead dough in stand-up mixer fitted with paddle attachment, then dough hook.)

5. Place dough in lightly oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

6. Place baking stone or inverted baking sheet in oven to heat. Preheat oven to 500 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone for 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

7. Punch dough down. Turn out onto lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Divide dough into 2 pieces. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest about 20 minutes.

8. Dust pizza peel or large metal spatula with cornmeal. In small bowl, combine egg and 1 tablespoon water; stir briskly with fork. Use your hands to press one piece of dough into an oval, then continue to stretch and press it into 10 x 7-inch oval, slightly less than 1/2-inch thick. Place oval on pizza peel. Brush top with egg glaze. Dip your fingertips in egg glaze and press them into dough to form dimples all over flatbread. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons whole flaxseeds.

9. Working quickly, open oven door, hold pizza peel at slight angle and tip end toward back of the baking stone. Give pizza peel a quick jerk, letting flat-bread slide onto baking stone. Quickly close oven door and bake flatbread until lightly browned and puffed, 11 to 12 minutes. Immediately wrap baked flat-bread in kitchen towel to keep it soft and warm. Repeat with remaining dough and flaxseed topping.

PER SERVING: 190 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 28G CARB.; 27MG CHOL.; 414MG SOD.; 4G FIBER

Olive and Rosemary Focaccia

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

Focaccia makes a great snack or party food. In this recipe, the olive topping is sandwiched between layers of dough so that just a few olives peek out on the surface. Semolina in the dough contributes to an appealing, crisp texture.

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup semolina, plus more for dusting
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. quick-rising yeast
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
2 tsp. olive oil

Topping

2/3 cup kalamata olives, pitted and
  coarsely chopped
4 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 Tbs. olive oil

1. In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine flour, semolina, yeast, salt and sugar; pulse on/off to mix. In measuring cup, combine 2/3 cup hot water (120 [degrees] F to 130 [degrees] F) and oil. With motor running, gradually pour hot liquid through food processor feed tube. Process until dough forms a ball, then process 1 minute to knead. The dough should be quite soft. If it seems dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons warm water; if too sticky, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour. Transfer dough to lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Coat sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and place, sprayed side down, over dough. Let dough rest 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Place baking stone or inverted baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to heat. Preheat oven to 450 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

3. Coat another baking sheet with cooking spray and dust with semolina. On lightly floured surface, roll dough into 16 x 12-inch rectangle. Sprinkle olives and 2 teaspoons rosemary over half of rectangle. Fold dough in half to enclose olives and form a 12 x 8-inch rectangle. Press edges together to seal. Roll dough into 15 x 11-inch rectangle, about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer dough to prepared baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap and let rise 20 minutes.

4. In small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon water. Brush oil mixture over top of focaccia. Sprinkle with remaining 2 teaspoons rosemary. Dip your fingertips in any remaining oil mixture and press dough to form dimples in focaccia. Pinch and pleat rim to finish edges. Place baking sheet on heated baking stone and bake until bottom of crust is golden and crisp, 10 to 20 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and use pizza cutter to cut into 8 rectangles. Serve warm or at room temperature.

PER SERVING: 154 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 27G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 365MG SOD.; 2G FIBER

Catalan Flatbread with Spinach, Onion and Pine Nut Topping

8 SERVINGS EGG- & DAIRY-FREE

This delicate flatbread is an example of a coca, a pizza-like speciality of Catalonia in northeastern Spain. It is hearty enough to serve as a meal, but you can also cut it into smaller rectangles to serve as tapas or appetizers.

Topping

3 tsp. olive oil
2 large onions, slivered
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup currants or dark raisins
2 Tbs. sherry vinegar or balsamic
  vinegar
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup pine nuts
16 to 18 oz. baby spinach, trimmed
  and rinsed

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal, plus more for
 dusting
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. quick-rising dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
2 tsp. olive oil

1. Begin topping: In large skillet, heat 2 teaspoons oil over medium heat. Add onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until very tender and lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes. To prevent scorching, adjust heat and add water as necessary.

2. In food processor fitted with metal blade, make dough: Combine flour, cornmeal, yeast, salt and sugar and pulse on/off to mix. In measuring cup, combine 2/3 cup hot water (120 [degrees] F to 130 [degrees] F) and 2 teaspoons oil. With motor running, gradually pour hot liquid through food processor feed tube. Process until dough forms ball, then process 1 minute to knead. The dough should be quite soft. If it seems dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons warm water; if too sticky, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour. Transfer dough to lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Lightly coat large sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and place, sprayed side down, over dough. Let dough rest 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, place baking stone or inverted baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to heat. Preheat oven to 450 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone for 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

4. In small bowl, cover currants with hot water. Set aside to soak about 20 minutes. Drain and stir currants into onions. Stir in vinegar and pepper.

5. In small baking pan, spread pine nuts and toast in oven until lightly golden, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. In large wide pot, cook spinach with just the water that clings to leaves over medium-high heat, stirring often, until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain in colander. Rinse with cold water and squeeze out excess moisture. Place in medium bowl and add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.

7. Assemble flatbread: Coat baking sheet with cooking spray and dust with cornmeal. On lightly floured surface, use rolling pin to roll dough into 16 x 12-inch rectangle, slightly less than 1/4 inch thick. Transfer dough to prepared sheet. Roll edges under to finish rim of crust. Brush remaining 1 teaspoon oil over rim of crust. Scatter spinach over crust. Top with caramelized onion mixture and sprinkle with toasted pine nuts. Lightly coat topping with cooking spray.

8. Place baking sheet on heated baking stone and bake until bottom of crust is golden and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and use pizza cutter to cut into 8 rectangles. Serve hot or warm.

PER SERVING: 229 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 40G CARB.; 0 CHOL; 585MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Turkish Pide with Feta and Dill Filling

4 SERVINGS

Small stuffed breads called pide are popular snacks in Turkey. Accompanied by a crisp shepherd's salad of chopped tomato, onion, cucumber and bell pepper dressed with parsley, olive oil and lemon juice, they make a light yet satisfying meal.

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 (1/4-oz.) pkg. quick-rising dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. olive oil

Filling

1 large egg
1/2 cup 1% fat cottage cheese
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese (3 oz.)
1 bunch scallions (white and light
  green parts), trimmed and
  chopped (1/2 cup)
1/3 cup chopped fresh dill
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper

Glaze

1 large egg
1 Tbs. sesame seeds

1. In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine flours, yeast, salt and sugar; pulse on/off to mix. In measuring cup, combine 3/4 cup hot water (120 [degrees] F to 130 [degrees] F) and oil. With motor running, gradually pour hot liquid through food processor feed tube. Process until dough forms ball, then process 1 minute to knead. The dough should be quite soft. If it seems dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons warm water; if too sticky, add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour. Transfer dough to lightly floured surface and knead a few times. Spray sheet of plastic wrap with cooking spray and place, sprayed side down, over dough. Let dough rest 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place baking stone or inverted baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to heat. Preheat oven to 450 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone for 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

3. Make filling: In medium bowl, whisk 1 egg. Add cottage cheese, feta, scallions, dill and pepper; mix well.

4. Make glaze: In small bowl, combine 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water; stir briskly with fork.

5. Assemble pide: Coat another baking sheet with cooking spray. Divide dough into 4 pieces. On lightly floured surface, use rolling pin to roll 1 piece of dough into 8 1/2 x 6 1/2-inch oval, slightly less than 1/4 inch thick. (Keep remaining pieces of dough covered while you work.) Brush a little egg glaze around border of oval. Place about 1/3 cup cheese filling in center of oval, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border all around. Bring edges of long sides of the oval together and pinch to seal from end to end. Fold over tips at narrow ends and pinch to seal. Use wide metal spatula to transfer pide to prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.

6. Brush tops of pide with egg glaze and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Place baking sheet on heated baking stone or inverted baking sheet and bake pide until golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to rack and let cool at least 10 minutes before serving hot or warm.

PER SERVING: 401 CAL.; 20G PROT.; 14G TOTAL FAT (6G SAT. FAT); 51G CARB.; 135MG CHOL.; 1,026MG SOD.; 6G FIBER

Semolina Flatbreads with Sesame, Caraway and Fennel Seeds

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

A satisfying, slightly chewy bread with a crunchy mixed seed topping.

1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. active dry yeast
2 1/4 to 2 1/2 cups unbleached
  all-purpose flour
2 Tbs. olive oil
2 tsp. salt
1 cup semolina, plus more for dusting

Glaze and topping

1 large egg
2 Tbs. sesame seeds
2 Tbs. caraway seeds
2 Tbs. fennel seeds
1/4 tsp. kosher salt

1. In large mixing bowl, stir together 1 1/4 cups lukewarm water (120 [degrees] F to 130 [degrees] F) and sugar. Sprinkle in yeast and let stand until dissolved and foamy, 8 to 10 minutes. Gradually whisk in 1 cup all-purpose flour. Beat about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until bubbly and sponge-like, about 1 hour.

2. Stir down sponge. Stir in oil and salt. Gradually beat in semolina. Add just enough of remaining 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour until dough is too stiff to stir. (The dough should be soft.) Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead, adding just enough flour to prevent sticking, until dough is smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can mix and knead dough in stand-up mixer fitted with paddle attachment, then dough hook.)

3. Place dough in lightly oiled large bowl and turn to coat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

4. Place baking stone or inverted baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to heat. Preheat oven to 500 [degrees] F. (Heat baking stone for 25 minutes before baking; heat baking sheet for 10 minutes.)

5. Punch dough down. Turn out onto lightly floured surface and knead several times. Divide dough into 8 pieces. Form each piece into ball. Cover and let rest 10 minutes.

6. Dust pizza peel or large spatula with semolina. In small bowl, combine egg and 1 tablespoon water; stir briskly with fork. In another small bowl, mix sesame, caraway, fennel seeds and salt. Working with two pieces dough at a time, on lightly floured surface, use rolling pin to roll dough into 7- to 7 1/2-inch circle, slightly less than 34 inch thick. (Keep remaining dough pieces covered while you are working.) Place dough circles on pizza peel. Brush with egg glaze. Sprinkle each with 1 1/2 teaspoons seed mixture. Using your hands, gently press seeds into dough. Prick dough all over with fork.

7. Working quickly, open oven door, hold pizza peel at slight angle and tip end toward back of baking stone. Give pizza peel a quick jerk, letting one flat-bread slide onto baking stone. Immediately, give peel another jerk and let second flatbread slide onto baking stone. Quickly close oven door and bake flatbreads until puffed in places and bottoms are lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Immediately wrap baked flatbreads in kitchen towel to keep soft and warm. While first batch bakes, roll out 2 more dough circles. Continue baking and shaping flatbreads until all dough and seed topping is used.

PER SERVING: 269 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 45G CARB.; 27MG CHOL.; 610MG SOD.; 3G FIBER

baking stones

If you enjoy making home-made pizza and crusty breads, you might consider investing in a baking stone. An unglazed clay baking stone absorbs and distributes heat evenly, ensuring a great crust.

* You can find baking stones in kitchenware stores and housewares departments. Choose the largest that will fit in your oven, but make sure there will be a 2-inch space around the stone to allow heat to circulate. To use a baking stone efficiently, you will also need a pizza peel, a flat shovel-like tool made of hardwood that's used to slide pizzas and breads onto the stone or a baking pan. This will help you easily transfer loaves directly to the hot baking stone. Using a peel requires a little practice, but you will quickly get the hang of it.

* Always place a baking stone in a cold oven, then preheat oven. Allow at least 25 minutes for the baking stone to heat before baking,

* Do not place cold dough directly on a heated baking stone. The abrupt change in temperature may cause the baking stone to crack. Make sure dough is at room temperature.

* Baking stones are porous and may absorb odors, so you should not use soap when cleaning. Remove stubborn stains with baking soda and water.

dips & dunks

Suggestions for bread accompaniments:

* Yogurt-Garlic Dipping Sauce: Line sieve with cheesecloth and place over bowl. Spoon 1 1/3 cups low-fat plain yogurt into sieve. Cover with plastic wrap and let drain in refrigerator for 1 hour. Discard whey and transfer drained yogurt to serving bowl. Mash 2 cloves garlic with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt into a paste, in mortar and pestle or with side of chef's knife. Stir into drained yogurt. If desired, stir in 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil. Makes 1 cup.

* Olive Oil-Tofu Dipping Sauce: Mash 2 cloves garlic with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt into a paste, in mortar and pestle or with side of chef's knife. Transfer to blender. Add 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil and 1/3 cup low-fat firm silken tofu; blend until smooth. Transfer to serving bowl. Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Makes 1/2 cup.

* White Bean Spread: Mash 2 cloves garlic with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt into a paste, in mortar and pestle or with side of chef's knife. Transfer to food processor. Add 1 (19-oz.) can drained and rinsed cannellini beans and pulse just until chunky. Add 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes; pulse just until mixed. Transfer to bowl and stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary. Makes 3/4 cup.

PATSY JAMIESON is a Vermont-based food writer specializing in healthy cooking.

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