Functional foods Going Too Far?

It is a troublesome paradox. Thanks to our abundant food supply, most Americans have so much to eat that a large segment of the population suffers from the effects of overnutrition--obesity, diabetes and the like. Yet despite all that we consume, Americans still don't eat nearly enough of the nutritious whole foods known to protect against many diseases.

One reaction has been the booming "functional food" industry--an $86 billion segment of the market that basically pumps up popular foods with extra nutrients. There's a history of health successes here: Decades ago, fortifying milk with vitamin D and bread with B vitamins helped wipe out such deficiency-related diseases as boneweakening rickets and deadly pellagra. The recent addition of folic acid to cereals and grains should do the same for certain kinds of birth defects.

But those fortification programs were done slowly, scientifically and cautiously. Today, many foods are being modified almost willy-nilly, and frequently at the urging of food marketers, not scientists. While the intentions may be good, the effects are unclear. A growing number of nutritionists and consumer advocates question the safety of functional foods, (also known as modified products and nutraceuticals) because:

* Some nutrients are being added without set standards or a known RDA;

* Their health claims often have yet to be thoroughly researched and proven;

* There's absolutely no guarantee that functional foods can provide the same health benefits as foods that contain these nutrients naturally.

The latest fracas is over adding omega-3 fatty acids--widely believed to reduce the risk of heart disease, cancer and some autoimmune disorders--to products like ice cream, cheese and eggs. (Normally, omega-3s are found in flaxseeds, nuts and cold-water fish like salmon.) The amounts recommended for cardiovascular health run anywhere from 200 to 3,000 milligrams (mg.) of omega-3s a day. For now, manufacturers are adding omega-3s conservatively. A popular brand of eggs contains 150 mg. per egg; a new omega-3 ice cream, developed this summer but not yet available on the market, also contains 150 mg. in about 1/2 cup.

Yet experts warn that certain people, including those on blood-thinning medications, should be wary about their omega-3 intake--even at these low doses--and consult a healthcare practitioner before consuming these products or considering a supplement.

And the last thing an already overfed American needs is to eat more ice cream because the added omega-3s "are good for you." What's next? Stay tuned.

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