Local flavors: fresh from the farm

Vegetarian Times, July, 2002 by Deborah Madison, Alexandra Greeley

Award-winning cookbook author, creative cook and founding chef of the renowned Greens restaurant in San Francisco, Deborah Madison has always championed the cause of eating well. And for vegetarians, Madison's simple yet elegant recipes served at Greens and set forth in her various vegetarian cookbooks have broadened the appeal of meatless meals.

But Deborah Madison without her chef's white jacket is a woman with a cause: to help preserve America's agricultural heritage in a sustainable way. "What interests me ate cooking and food, and food and culture," she says, adding that farmers' markets combine all three. They're a kind of community happening, where people can not only socialize but also learn about farm-fresh foods and who grows them. "These markets are hugely popular," she says, "and are usually born of a grassroots movement."

Madison herself has worked hard to organize and support her local farmers' market in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Inspired, she began to look at how this "greenmarket" phenomenon is helping to change the way many people eat, including how it has shaped her own menus at home. "I kept noticing a certain type of recipe in my repertoire, and it was always market based," she says. "So I traveled the country to see how different and similar farmers' markets are."

Madison chronicled her experiences and the recipes she developed in her newest book, Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Markets. "I visited about 100 farmers' markets across the country," she says, adding, "Farmers' markets are the best source of the most wholesome, flavorful and ultra-fresh produce to be found anywhere in the United States. They are the truest statement about our regional foods, for, by definition, a farmers' market is a local market, whether measured by miles, county lines or watersheds." And, of course, the produce is always seasonal.

Foods in season always taste good together, she believes, so "cooking with what you find at the market practically ensures you of success--and ease," says Madison. And `in season' has to do with geography, not the timeless season of the supermarket."

That's why some of chef extraordinaire Madison's recipes may seem out of season for you--but will be perfectly timed for someone else.

Radish Butter Sandwiches

MAKES 1/2 CUP 30 MINUTES OR LESS

A good radish sandwich can be nothing
more than sweet butter spread on bread
topped with sliced radishes and sea salt.
But you will find that a radish butter made
earlier in the day is a simple way to get
radishes to stay on sandwich bread--and
a quick way to prepare lunch.

6 to 8 radishes, varicolored, with
  leaves intact
4 Tbs. unsalted butter, room
  temperature
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Sea salt to taste

1. Wash and trim radishes. Set a dozen or
so tender, fresh leaves aside. Remove
stems. Thinly slice radishes into rounds.
Slice these crosswise into narrow strips.
Each strip should be tipped with colon
Chop or sliver leaves.

2. Beat butter with lemon zest until well
combined. Stir in sliced radishes, radish
leaves and sea salt.

3. Spread butter on slices of crusty baguette
and serve.

PER SERVING: 50 CAL; 0G PROT.; 6G TOTAL
FAT (3.5G SAT. FAT); 0G CARB; 15MG CHOL;
40MG SOD; 0G FIBER

Variation: Farmers' markets ate often where you find unusual varieties of many vegetables, including radishes. For example, you might find the Chinese "Red Meat" radishes, which are large, turnip-shaped tubers that are pale green on the outside with a vivid red-pink inside. Simply slice these paper thin. Then refrigerate slices in cold water until crisp and curled, about 30 minutes. Drain slices before using, and press sliced, curled radishes onto butter. They'll look like big ruffles. Sprinkle with sea salt and serve.

Wine Suggestion

A simple sandwich heightened by butter and spicy radishes should pair nicely with a Chablis. Made from Chardonnay grapes, Chablis is usually light, lean and slightly wooded. Try Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis.

Corn and Squash Simmered
in Coconut Milk with
Thai Basil

SERVES 4

The minute I added Thai basil instead of
Italian basil to the corn, this dish was
transformed. Suddenly, I was using fresh
coriander, coconut milk and tofu to make
a fragrant stew. For a low-cal option, subsitute
a reduced-fat coconut milk for the
regular product.

1 Tbs. Lorive roasted peanut oil
1 lb. or more fresh, firm tofu, cubed
2 zucchini, cubed
4 large ears sweet corn
1 jalapeno chile, seeded
1 heaping Tbs. fresh coriander leaves
1 bunch red or green scallions,
  including hall the firm greens,
  sliced in 1/2-inch lengths
1 heaping Tbs. Thai basil leaves
3/4 tsp. sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
14-oz. can coconut milk
1 tsp. mushroom soy sauce
3 cups cooked basmati rice
Sprigs fresh coriander and slivered
  Thai basil leaves for garnish

1. Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over
medium-high heat. When hot, add tofu and
zucchini and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon
salt. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, shaking pan
occasionally to brown tofu on all sides.

2. Meanwhile, slice corn kernels off cob.
Using opposite knife edge, press out milk.
Set aside kernels on cutting board. Finely
mince jalapeno with fresh coriander and
Thai basil.

3. Add scallions, jalapeno-herb mixture
and corn to pan. Pour 1 cup coconut milk
into pan. Rinse out cup with 1/3 cup water
and stir into pan. Stir in soy sauce, ah additional
1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground
black pepper. Cook until corn is heated
through, 3 to 5 minutes. Adjust seasonings.
Serve over rice garnished with additional
herbs.

PER SERVING: 730 CAL; 30G PROT; 38G TOTAL
FAT (23G SAT. FAT); 81G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
135MG SOD; 10G FIBER