Griller instincts: gas or charcoal grill? You decide

Vegetarian Times, June, 2002 by Melissa Clark

Ask anyone who owns a grill whether he prefers charcoal or gas, and the answer is always the same: He prefers the method he has. Die-hard charcoal grillers don't see the point of cooking out without the fun of the flames and the taste of smoke on food. Gas grillers think of their grills as new and improved, with their convenience and clean, precise cooking. So how does a grilling novice choose between these camps?

The decision depends on how and what you cook A charcoal griller generally enjoys the sport of grilling, and seeks the thrill of high flames. There is a rustic simplicity in lighting a fire in a charcoal grill and cooking over it. You can toss on any vegetable or veggie burger and pull it off a few minutes later with varied yet usually delicious results--as long as you pay close attention to it. Even one moment of daydreaming can result in a burnt tofu-kebob supper.

Cooks who prefer gas may approach a grilled meal as they would a meal cooked indoors. They want to control the heat and the end results. It's a more predictable and often less nerve-wracking experience. Neither is necessarily better, but each is different in feel.

A charcoal grill can be used with charcoal or with wood. In either case, you'll be building a fire, then letting it burn down to glowing embers. To light the fire you'll probably want to choose a chimney starter, electric starter or gas starter--or use the paper and kindling method--since lighter fluid leaves its flavor on food.

As you cook, you'll need to monitor the heat of your coals, perhaps stoking the fire if you feel the temperature dropping. This is all part of the fun of charcoal grilling, which offers the same satisfactions a kid feels poking the logs of a campfire with a marshmallow stick.

"The whole gestalt of grilling involves fire," says Peter Berley, author of The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen. "That's what the experience is all about. Grilling equals fire.

"But there's one caveat: You can't use charcoal briquettes. You've got to use hardwood charcoal. It burns hotter, and you avoid tainting food with the chemicals briquettes are treated with."

The reward of charcoal grilling lies in the process and the results, especially when you replace charcoal briquettes with hardwood lump charcoal, which lends a compelling, woodsy taste to food.

Charcoal grills also tend to reach higher temperatures than most gas grills, so they cook food quickly.

"I always use a charcoal grill," Berley says. "You just get a better flavor; it's more intense, smokier, more profound in every way."

In contrast, the gas griller enjoys push-button control. Simply light the grill, turn the dial to the desired setting and let it do its thing. The grill heats quickly, and once you learn how long it takes to char a pepper or sear a stuffed tomato, you'll be able to monitor the meal from the other side of the pool or from the hammock.

Although gas grilling does not yield the deeply smoky flavor of grilling with burning wood, using aromatic wood chips with the lava rocks can add smoky essence.

"I prefer gas over charcoal," says grilling enthusiast Heather Lamster of Broadway Panhandler, a gourmet cookware shop in New York City. "The heat is more even. You don't have to worry about hot and cold spots or temperature flare-ups. You get a much better sense of control and the ability to cook things exactly to your taste.

"Gas is really easy," she adds. "You just turn it on. You don't need to prep anything, and you don't have to babysit the food as much.

"The grill doesn't require major cleanup and allows you much more freedom to walk around and enjoy your guests. The wood chips add the wood-smoke flavor to foods, so there's really no downside."

One thing to consider when choosing between a gas and charcoal grill is location. Are you planning to grill on the large patio in your garden or the urban balcony of your apartment? A small charcoal grill is better suited to cramped grilling quarters, because gas grills are often larger and usually require greater space for safety's sake. (In New York City, for example, zoning laws prohibit gas grills from being used in apartment buildings.)

However, if you want a full-sized grill and are short on storage space, a gas grill is often easier to store than the standard charcoal grill.

A growing number of options are available to the would-be griller. You'll find everything from a $30 hibachi--a coverless, mini, charcoal grill--to a handsome "outdoor kitchen" fueled by gas, with an extension cord to the nearest outlet. The latter comes complete with sinks, lights, counters, storage and burners, which can run $3,000 or more. The average price of a gas grill exceeds that of a charcoal grill, because gas grilling requires much more complex technology.

Once you choose sides in the debate and purchase a gas or charcoal grill, you'll realize why so many back yards, driveways, rooftops and balconies are fitted with similar appliances. Whether you're grilling a quick tofu steak for an after-work sandwich or every vegetable in the garden for an elegant pasta primavera, you'll love the casual methods and intense tastes of grilling.