Rise & dine: breaking the fast with Mollie Katzen's cooking

Vegetarian Times, Oct, 2002 by Alexandra Greeley

Fire-Roasted Pepper Salsa

SERVES 4

This salsa adds both flavor and color to
entree dishes, such as the Wild Rice Pancakes
and the Peruvian Blue Home Fries.
From Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe.

Olive oil
2 lb. red, yellow or orange
  bell peppers
1 1/2 tsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. cider vinegar
1 Tbs. fresh lemon or lime juice
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste
Cayenne to taste

1. Preheat broiler and lightly brush baking
tray with olive oil. Place whole peppers
on tray.

2. Broil peppers, turning every 5 minutes,
until blackened all over, about 15 minutes.

3. Transfer peppers to bowl, and cover
bowl with plate. Let peppers cool for 45
minutes, during which time they release
juices. Reserve juices.

4. Peel peppers and remove and discard
seeds and stems. Mince flesh of peppers
and return minced peppers to bowl. Stir in
remaining ingredients, and adjust salt and
cayenne to taste.

5. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Store in tightly sealed jar in refrigerator.

PER SERVING: 70 CAL; 2G PROT; 0G TOTAL
FAT (0G SAT. FAT); 16G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
300MG SOD; 4G FIBER

Apple-Pear Tart with
Cornmeal Crust

SERVES 8 (ONE 10-INCH TART)

This rustic fruit tart, with cornmeal-based
crust and lattice top, looks like dessert but
is a perfect breakfast pastry. Good in winter
made with a combination of tangy apples
and sweet pears, it is also a winning
dish in summertime with peaches and
blackberries or blueberries. This tart
tastes especially good with a dollop of
creme fraiche on the side. For a fancier
look, glaze the crust with an egg wash and
a sprinkling of sugar before baking.
Adapted from Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe.

Pastry
1/2 cup fine cornmeal
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose
  flour
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter
1 extra-large egg
1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs. heavy cream or
half-and-half

Filling
2 red apples
1 green apple, preferably Granny
  Smith
1 pear, preferably Bosc or Anjou
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. cornstarch
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup fresh or frozen cranberries,
  or more as desired

1. To make pastry: Combine cornmeal,
flour, sugar and salt in food processor fitted
with steel blade. Use sharp knife to
cut butter into thin slices while still cold,
then lay butter on top of dry ingredients
in food processor. Pulse several times until
butter is evenly distributed and mixture
resembles coarse meal. Add egg and pulse
once or twice until just incorporated, then
pulse in enough cream to bring dough together.
Remove dough from food processor
and press together into one mass.

2. Divide dough into 2 uneven pieces,
about two-thirds and one-third. Form
each into ball, and flatten each ball into
thick disk. Place each disk between 2
sheets of wax paper, and roll until about 1/8
inch thick. Ease larger circle into 9- or 10-inch
pie pan and trim edges. Cut smaller
circle into strips about 1/2 inch wide.

3. Preheat oven to 375F.

4. To make filling: Slice apples and pear
thinly. Transfer to bowl and drizzle with
lemon or lime juice and toss with grated
lemon zest. Combine cornstarch, cinnamon,
nutmeg, sugars and salt in bowl,
sprinkle onto fruit and toss to coat.

5. Arrange fruit in crust so skins show, and
sprinkle cranberries over top. Arrange
dough strips on top in criss-cross pattern
to form lattice topping.

6. Place filled tart on baking tray and bake
in lower half of oven about 40 minutes, or
until light golden on top and around
edges. Cool at least 15 minutes before
slicing tart. Serve warm or at room temperature.

PER SERVING: 430 CAL; 6G PROT; 17G TOTAL
FAT (10G SAT. FAT); 65G CARB; 80MG CHOL;
240MG SOD; 5G FIBER

Wine Suggestions

Beginning of the day, end of the day, beginning
of the meal and end of the meal. All of these
options suggest pouring and enjoying Champagne.
Pop open a bottle of Moet & Chandon
White Star

Wild Rice Pancakes with
Mushrooms and Goat Cheese

SERVES 4

You can speed preparation of this dish by
purchasing preprepared wild rice, available
in foil packets at some specialty food
stores. From Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe.

1 Tbs. olive oil
12 medium-sized mushrooms
  (1 1/2 inches in diameter)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 large eggs
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 scallions, minced
1 cup cooked wild rice
5 oz. crumbled goat cheese
1/8 tsp. black pepper
Nonstick vegetable spray
Butter for the pan, optional

Optional Toppings
Sour cream or yogurt
Flat-leaf parsley
Minced chives
Fire-Roasted Pepper Salsa (p. 49)
Chive blossoms

1. Heat skillet over medium heat, about 1
minute. Add olive oil and mushrooms and
cook 5 minutes. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt
and cook 5 minutes more. Stir in garlic and
lemon juice and remove pan from heat.

2. Beat eggs in bowl. Whisk in flour and
remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir in cooked
mushrooms, including all juices. Add scallions,
wild rice, goat cheese and black pepper,
and stir until well combined.

3. Wipe out skillet and return to medium
heat. After 1 to 2 minutes, spray lightly
with nonstick vegetable spray and add butter,
if using.

4. When pan is hot enough to sizzle bread
crumb, using 1/2-cup measure, scoop up
batter and pour into hot pan. Cook for 2
to 3 minutes on each side, or until pancakes
are golden.

5. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature
with one or more of toppings suggested
above.

PER SERVING: 330 CAL; 19G PROT; 19G TOTAL
FAT (9G SAT. FAT); 21G CARB; 240MG
CHOL; 830MG SOD; 2G FIBER

Wine Suggestions

The two red wine grapes of Burgundy are
Pinot Noir and Gamay, the latter used for
Beaujolais. Wild rice, goat cheese and earthy
mushrooms match well with a Beaujolais,
such as Morgon, Grand Cru, Anne-Marie Perret,
Domaine des Grand Cras.

Autumn or Winter Frittata

SERVES 6

A frittata is a thick Italian omelet full of
vegetables, herbs and cheese. Unlike many
other egg dishes, frittatas can be made
ahead and reheated or served cold or at
room temperature. This dish reheats well
in the microwave and can keep refrigerated
in a tightly sealed container for up to
one week. For a lower-fat version, cut back
on the amount of cheese you use. Adapted
from Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe.

2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. butter
1 medium-sized onion, peeled and
  sliced
1 tsp. salt
2 large stalks ruby chard
2 medium-sized potatoes, scrubbed,
  unpeeled and thinly sliced
2 tsp. dried rosemary
1/2 tsp. dried sage
2 tsp. minced garlic
8 large eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup diced Gruyere cheese

1. Remove and mince chard leaves and cut
stems in 1/2-inch-long pieces. Maintain
leaves and stems in separate containers,
and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in 10-inch
skillet over medium heat. Add butter, and
when melted, toss in onions. Cook, stirring
frequently, over medium heat, about
5 minutes, then reduce heat to low, add 1/2
teaspoon salt and cover skillet. Cook 20
minutes more, or until onions are soft.

3. Stir in potatoes and herbs. Cover and
cook about 10 minutes, stirring intermittently,
or until potato slices are tender.

4. Add chard stems and saute about 2
minutes more. Stir in chard leaves and garlic
and cook another minute, or until
leaves are wilted but still bright green. Remove
pan from heat.

5. Break eggs into large bowl, add remaining
1/2 teaspoon salt, and beat well with
whisk. Add vegetables, black pepper to
taste and cheese. Stir until evenly distributed.
Clean and dry skillet and return to
burner over medium heat. Preheat broiler.

6. When skillet is hot again, add remaining
olive oil, wait about 30 seconds, and swirl
to coat pan. Pour in vegetable-egg mixture
and cook undisturbed over medium heat,
3 to 4 minutes, or until bottom of eggs
have firmed.

7. Transfer skillet to broiler, and broil
about $ minutes, or until frittata is firm in
center. Remove from broiler, and run knife
around edge to loosen frittata. Slide or invert
onto large, round plate, and serve
hot, warm or at room temperature, cut
into wedges.

PER SERVING: 300 CAL; 16G PROT; 20G TOTAL
FAT (7G SAT. FAT); 17G CARB; 310MG
CHOL; 590MG SOD; 2G FIBER

Wine Suggestions

Lining up food textures with wine textures affords
diners better food and wine pairings. In
this case, the full-bodied mouth feel of potatoes,
eggs, Gruyere, butter and resinous herbs
calls for a full-on Chardonnay: Try Fetzer Vineyards
Barrel Select Chardonnay.

Calabacitas

SERVES 2

This flavorful dish makes a delightful
luncheon entree, a perfect partner for
warmed flour tortillas. To underscore the
bold, Southwestern flavors, top the
cooked squash with salsa and garnish with
chopped fresh coriander. Adapted from
Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Cafe.

2 Tbs. olive oil
1 1/2 medium-sized onions, peeled
  and chopped
1 cup diced Cubanelle peppers or
  poblano chiles
1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste
1 tsp. pure ground chili powder
2 6-inch-long yellow summer
  squash, diced
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
  (2 large ears)
2 tsp. minced garlic
1 1/4 cup cooked pinto beans
1/2 cup grated Monterrey Jack or
  cheddar cheese, optional
Freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
Lime wedges

1. Heat skillet over medium heat 1 to 2
minutes. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil, wait
about 30 seconds, then swirl to coat pan.

2. When hot enough to sizzle bread
crumbs, add onion, chiles, salt and chili
powder, then cook, stirring frequently, 5
minutes, or until vegetables become soft
and onions turn slightly golden.

3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil,
squash, corn, garlic and beans, and continue
to cook, stirring gently to avoid
breaking beans, about 5 minutes more, or
until squash is just tender. Remove pan
from heat.

4. Sprinkle in grated cheese, if using, and
stir to distribute as it melts. Add black
pepper. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature
with wedge of lime per serving.

PER SERVING: 220 CAL; 6G PROT; 8G TOTAL
FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 65G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
650MG SOD; 10G FIBER

Wine Suggestions

Even for those whose business it is to make
wine, sometimes beer is better. Randall
Grahm, proprietor and vitizen of Bonny Doon
Vineyard in Santa Cruz, California, is attributed
with the quote, "It takes a lot of good
beer to make good wine." Try Fordham Brewing
Company Helles Lager.

Peruvian Blue Home Fries

SERVES 4

This dish features a traditional Peruvian
combination of potatoes and peanuts and
will be even more authentic if you make
it with Peruvian blue potatoes, available
in farmers' markets and in some grocery
stores. Other types of potatoes will also
work. Adapted from Mollie Katzen's Sunlight
Cafe.

2 lbs. potatoes, preferably Peruvian
  blue potatoes, unpeeled and
  cubed
5 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 medium-sized onions, peeled and
  chopped
1 cup minced Cubanelle peppers or
  poblano chiles
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, chopped
1 to 2 Tbs. minced garlic
3/4 cup packed grated Monterrey
  Jack or cheddar cheese, optional
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 cup lightly toasted peanuts,
  coarsely chopped
Minced fresh coriander or parsley
Lemon wedges for squeezing

1. Place potatoes in large saucepan, add
water to cover and bring to boil. Cook
until just tender, 10 to 12 minutes, then
drain and set aside.

2. Heat large skillet over medium heat.
When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil,
wait about I 0 seconds, then swirl to coat
pan. Add half of cooked potatoes, spreading
them into single layer. Cook 5 minutes,
stirring occasionally.

3. After 5 minutes, sprinkle in about 1/8
teaspoon salt and turn potatoes over.
Spread into single layer again and cook another
5 minutes. Cook 1 to 2 minutes
more, then transfer to plate. Repeat procedure
with remaining potatoes, using 2
tablespoons oil and another 1/8 teaspoon
salt or to taste.

4. After cooking potatoes, wipe pan with
damp paper towel. Return pan to heat
and, when hot, add remaining oil. Wait 10
seconds, then swirl to coat pan.

5. Add onions and saute over medium
heat for 5 to 8 minutes, or until golden.
Add chiles, bell peppers and remaining
teaspoon salt. Continue to cook, stirring
often, for another 5 minutes.

6. Return potatoes to pan with garlic and
stir into onion mixture. Cook over
medium heat for 2 minutes more. Sprinkle
in lemon juice during last few minutes
of cooking.

6. Serve hot or warm, topped with
peanuts and minced fresh coriander or
parsley. Tuck in lemon wedges alongside.

PER SERVING: 440 CAL; 11G PROT; 24G TOTAL
FAT (3.5G SAT. FAT); 52G CARB; 0MG
CHOL; 115MG SOD; 7G FIBER

Wine Suggestions

Dishes featuring potatoes, butter, garlic, peppers
or mild chiles and cheese, if you decide
to use it, will pair well with Chardonnay. Try
changing the garnishes on this dish to filberts
and basil for even better alignment with
Chardonnay. Once again, consider something
as take-charge as the Fetzer Vineyards Barrel
Select Chardonnay. If you want a change of
pace from wine for this dish, you may want to
consider such chilled fruit juices as guava, passion
fruit or mango. And for a final flourish,
consider hot, spiced tea or hot cocoa whipped
with heavy cream.