The good earth: harvesting the spirit of Mendocino County

Vegetarian Times, Sept, 2002 by Alexandra Greeley

It's a crystalline Sunday afternoon, and John Ash has invited friends to share in a harvest feast. The setting: Mendocino County's Bonterra Vineyards, a private ranch with lush fields and meadows encircled by rugged, tree-covered Northern California hills. Inside Bonterra's converted sheep barn, a convenient kitchen provides ample cooking space. Outside on the terrace, Ash and his guests gather by the cook fire as the sun tilts westward, casting shadows across the dramatic landscape. Heaped on a nearby table is a bounty of organic produce from area farmers' markets.

Preparing such plenty is a splendid way to entertain. It's also a fitting means to celebrate September's National Organic Harvest Month.

An internationally renowned food and wine authority, Ash moves from the grill to the kitchen with ease. As a champion of sustainable agriculture, Ash was one of the creators of "Wine Country Cuisine"--a way of cooking and eating that draws on the best of local crops for meals toasted by glorious wines. Ash realized years ago with his namesake restaurant, John Ash & Co., that tapping into such an abundant harvest provided the basis for exquisite meals. "When I started my restaurant venture," he says, "among my passions were to create delicious, inventive food; to make sure that food came from the best local sources and was grown ethically; and to refine my great love of wine."

Today Ash focuses much of his cooking energy on teaching and working with the owners of Bonterra, the backdrop for the day's festivities. Although still a resident of Sonoma County just south of Mendocino, Ash regularly travels to Mendocino, where he is repeatedly smitten with its beauty. "The county is so beautiful, and is really rural and untouched," he says, describing how the indigenous Pomo Indians of centuries past venerated their fruitful land by holding ceremonies to bless their crops. "Spiritual forces have drawn people here since prerecorded history," he says about this area that seems to exist in a time warp.

Apart from its isolation, mystical heritage and rugged beauty, Mendocino's topographical diversity is another attribute. "I like to think of Mendocino County as a land of contrasts," says local resident Bob Blue, a cookout guest and Bonterra's winemaker. "We have deep valleys and tall mountains, we have redwood forests and dry rolling hills covered with oak trees. We have the ocean and cultivated vineyards."

It's easy to see why people fall in love with this extravagantly beautiful strip of Northern California. But to area residents, Mendocino County's chief attraction is its temperate climate and richly fertile farmland, which produce its very abundant crops, including apples, pears, olives, tomatoes and walnuts--not to mention grapes. The latter generate some of California's finest vintages and, have become an increasingly important aspect of the local economy.

Wine has not always been a primary cash crop. It wasn't until the late 1800s that the first Italian settlers introduced several of their native grapevine stocks. Today only hard-core oenophiles may recognize the names of the thirty-plus local wineries, but almost everyone can sense the almost mystical impact that climate and topography have on the enjoyment of the fruits of the vine when paired with the harvest from the fields--especially when all elements of the meal are organic, as they are for Ash's party.

Green and Yellow Bean Salad

SERVES 4 TO 6

For the best flavor, let beans marinate.

1 lb. green beans
1 lb. yellow wax beans
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 Tbs. peeled and minced ginger
2 tsp. minced jalapeno or serrano
  chiles, or to taste
3/4 cup fresh lime juice
3 Tbs. granulated sugar, or to taste
1/3 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
1/4 cup olive oil or vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
Thinly sliced crisp fried shallots or
  garlic, if desired, for garnish

Bring 3 quarts lightly salted water to a boil
over medium heat. Blanch beans separately
until crisp-tender. Immediately
plunge beans into ice water, drain and set
aside. Whisk remaining ingredients together
and toss beans with dressing to
coat. Let marinate for 1 hour. Serve garnished
with fried shallots, if desired.

PER SERVING: 180 CAL; 3G PROT; 11G TOTAL
FAT (1.5G SAT. FAT); 21G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
480MG SOD; 5G FIBER.

Wine Suggestions

For this recipe, a rich Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah would go nicely.

Grilled Corn on the Cob
with Ancho Chile and Roasted
Garlic Butter

SERVES 4

Flavored butters make grilled corn a real
treat. You can grill the ears wrapped up
with the butter or just slather the butter
on after cooking.

4 large ears fresh corn
8 Tbs. ancho chile and roasted garlic
  butter (recipe follows)

1. Partially shuck corn and remove all silk.
Spread butter on corn and pull husk back
up. Wrap each ear in foil.

2. Place on medium-hot grill and cook until
tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Turn several
times. When done, remove foil and pull off
husks over bowl to catch any juices and
butter. Serve immediately, basting with
juices.

Ancho Chile and
Roasted Garlic Butter

1/2 lb. unsalted butter, barely
   softened
1 1/2 Tbs. ancho or other medium-hot
   pure chile powder
2 Tbs. roasted garlic puree
  (see note)
1 tsp. brown sugar
1 tsp. finely grated lime zest
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste

Using mixer or wooden spoon, beat all ingredients
together until thoroughly combined.
Store unused portion in plastic or
foil and refrigerate for up to 5 days or
freeze for up to 3 months.

Note: To roast garlic, halve heads horizontally.
Drizzle with drops of olive oil and
lightly season with salt and pepper. Wrap
in foil and roast at 375F. or grill over moderate
fire for 40 minutes, or until garlic is
soft and creamy. Cool and squeeze from
husk.

PER SERVING: 220 CAL; 3G PROT; 16G TOTAL
FAT (10G SAT. FAT); 21G CARB; 40MG CHOL;
20MG SOD; 2G FIBER.