Egregious ingredients - Letter to the Editor

Vegetarian Times, July, 2003 by Shannon Helms

I am writing because I subscribe to your magazine, and I had been rather happy with the publication until the March 2003 issue. The Louisiana Gumbo recipe refers to "vegetarian chicken broth" and/or "vegetarian chicken-flavored whey/seitan." Since vegetarians do not eat chicken, I can't help but wonder why your recipes make reference to animals we don't eat.

I am only bringing this to your attention because I feel confident that I am not the only one who feels that recipes can be just as good without the mention of animals.

Shannon Helms

New York, New York

VT "Vegan Gourmet" columnist Marie Oser says: First, I would like to point out that seitan (a wheat gluten product) does not contain whey, which is a by-product of the dairy industry.

Regarding your question about the use of analogs and other alternative items found in vegetarian recipes, there are two schools of thought.

Some find the idea of eating food reminiscent of that created from animal products to be unappetizing. They don't feel the need to replace familiar foods--their cuisine of choice is eating grains, veggies, soy foods, legumes and fruits in their natural state.

It is important to note that animals provide the raw material from which many familiar foods are created, and that patties, "meatballs" and "sausage" can now easily be fashioned from plant foods. While many would agree (myself included) that a plant-based dish fashioned to look like an animal can be disagreeable, there is nothing about patties, "sausage" links, "meatballs," or chunks of texturized protein or wheat gluten that remotely resembles a living creature.

When we consume soy-based "meatballs, "it doesn't mean we long for animal flesh--on the contrary. We have found a way to enjoy plant-based foods in myriad flavors and textures, so we can enjoy comfort foods without cruelty. Many would agree that the important issue is the origin of the meal.

Regarding "chicken" flavored vegetable broth: This is a widely available product, and it adds particular flavor notes that are different from plain vegetable broth. My recipes include an array of vegan ingredients, and became I have been a vegetarian for more than 30 years, I can't tell you if this product tastes like chicken I only know that it's different from plain broth and offers a certain dimension to a dish.