Peachy keen: celebrating summer's favorite fruit

Vegetarian Times, July, 2003 by Alexandra Greeley

"Peaches capture the flavor of summer," says David Mas Masumoto, a peach grower from the Fresno, California, area. "And when you bite into one, that transports you back into stories and memories of family and childhood." For many Americans, peaches symbolize the best of summertime--long, hot days refreshed by peach slices on cereal, peach ice cream, peach cobbler, peach pie and, best of all, the barely blushed, tree-ripened whole peach with its burst of sweet juices on the tongue. Good peaches tap into all the senses, Masumoto adds there is its heady aroma when you bring a peach toward your mouth, and the senses of taste and touch when you bite into one and taste and feel its tantalizing juices. "And all good peaches leave a taste that people want to retain," he adds.

A native of China--and the Chinese symbol for immortality--the peach, Prunus persica, is a member of the rose family, and related to apricots, plums and almonds. The peach traveled by ancient caravans from China to Persia and then eventually to Europe. By the mid-16th century, peaches even turned up in Mexico. Soon afterward, peach fanciers took this prized fruit to the East Coast of the American colonies and then westward to California. Today, California has become the largest peach source, growing more than half of the world's supply.

What most American consumers may not know about this favorite fruit is that peaches fall into three categories--clingstone, semifree-stone and freestone, determined by how easily the peach flesh comes away from the stone, or pit--and that peaches grow in hundreds of varieties, with such colorful names as O'Henry, Elegant Lady and Masumoto's favorite peach, the heirloom variety, Sun Crest. "If you talk with old-timers, they remember Sun Crest and smack their lips," says Masumoto. "That's how I got this peach into some markets. The old-timers remembered it and asked me to ship them some."

For younger Americans, savoring such peaches may be a real taste adventure. Accustomed to the modern varieties developed for durability and eye appeal, says Andy Mariani, stone-fruit grower with a family enterprise in Morgan Hill, California, younger Americans equate a red-blush skin color with ripeness. "Modern fruits are designed to be picked greener," he says, and may appear red all over even though unripe. These are firm and have little juice. In sharp contrast, older peach varieties remain yellow, bruise easily and have a "melting" texture. "When you bite into one, the juice runs down your chin," he says.

A trip to a farmers' market in peach-growing country will turn up juicy, old-fashioned peaches. Look for those that are fragrant, have a golden undercolor and flesh that gives slightly when pressed. Says David Karp, a Californian who specializes in writing about fruit, "The more local the peach and the closer the connection to the person who is selling the peach, the better the peach." Otherwise, grow your own.

Essence of Peach Soup

SERVES 4

Best when peaches are at their prime, this
refreshingly chilled soup is both light and
delicate, depending on the peach's succulent
flavor for its success.

2 cantaloupes
1 peach, peeled and pitted
1 cup peach nectar
1/2 cup Rhine, White Zinfandel or
  other fruity wine
Juice of 1 lime
4 Tbs. toasted pine nuts for garnish
1 cup raspberries for garnish
Mint leaves for garnish

1. Slice cantaloupes in half crosswise, leaving
flat ends intact. Scoop out seeds, and
remove flesh from both melons, leaving an
inner layer. Use flesh from 1/2 melon only,
reserving remainder for another use.

2. Place melon flesh, peach, peach nectar,
wine and lime juice in blender, and process
until smooth. Pour into container, and
refrigerate until chilled.

3. To serve, pour about 1 cup soup into
each melon half, and garnish with pine
nuts, raspberries and mint leaves.

PER SERVING: 230 CAL; 5G PROT; 5G TOTAL
FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 40G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
30MG SOD; 6G FIBER; 33G SUGARS

Peach-and-Snow Pea Stir-Fry

SERVES 4

A teriyaki sauce comes together quickly
and easily, so make your own at home
rather than buying a commercial brand.

Teriyaki Sauce

1/3 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 Tbs. sherry or sake
1/4 cup sugar, or to taste
1 1/2 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 Tbs. minced garlic
2 Tbs. cornstarch

Stir-Fry

8 oz. water chestnuts
2 oz. teriyaki-flavored baked tofu
8 oz. sliced bamboo shoots
4 oz. round or flat rice stick noodles
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 peach, sliced
3 oz. snow pea pods, trimmed

1. To make Teriyaki Sauce: Combine all
ingredients in small bowl, and set aside.

2. To make Stir-Fry: Place water chestnuts,
tofu and bamboo shoots in Teriyaki Sauce,
and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, bring large pot of water to
a boil, and cook noodles until tender,
about 8 minutes. Drain, rinse and drain
again. Set aside.

4. Heat oil in large wok or skillet over
medium heat. When hot, add water chestnuts,
tofu, bamboo shoots and Teriyaki
Sauce, and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add
peach slices and snow pea pods, and stir-fry
2 to 3 minutes more. Remove from
heat, and set aside.

5. To serve, portion noodles on individual
plates, and spoon Stir-Fry over top.

PER SERVING: 350 CAL; 9G PROT; 9G TOTAL
FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 57G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
460MG SOD; 5G FIBER; 17G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

A suitable wine match for teriyaki is often
Riesling; and one of the flavor characteristics
often attributed to fruit-forward Riesling is
"peachy." Try any Riesling made by Lingenfelder
Estate.

Peachy Dessert Pizza

SERVES 2 TO 4

Both cinnamon and lemon juice underscore
the peach flavors for this layered
dessert. You may share by slicing the pizza
pie into quarters. If you cannot find a pre-made
pizza crust, use your favorite large
pita bread instead.

1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 medium-sized peaches, unpeeled
  and sliced
1 cup low-fat ricotta cheese
1/3 cup confectioners' sugar
1/4 cup candied lemon peel
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. butter or soy margarine
1 8-inch premade, round
  pizza crust
1/2 cup thinly sliced almonds
2 cups sliced fresh strawberries

1. Preheat oven to 450F. Line pizza pan or
baking sheet with foil.

2. Place brown sugar, lemon juice and cinnamon
in mixing bowl, and stir to combine.
Add peaches, and stir to coat slices
with mixture. Set aside.

3. Place ricotta cheese in separate mixing
bowl, and beat in sugar, lemon peel and
vanilla extract. Butter pizza crust, and
place on baking sheet. Spoon half the
peach mixture over crust. Sprinkle with
half the almonds. Top with ricotta cheese
mixture, and spoon remaining peach
mixture over top. Sprinkle evenly with
remaining almonds.

4. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from
oven, garnish with strawberries and serve.

PER SERVING: 445 CAL; 13G PROT; 17G TOTAL
FAT (6G SAT. FAT); 62G CARB; 38MG CHOL;
460MG SOD; 5G FIBER; 37G SUGARS

Peach-and-Lemon
Graham Cake

SERVES 8 TO 10

1/2 cup softened unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/4 cup dried lemon peel
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 peach, unpeeled and diced
3/4 cup whole milk
1 tsp. lemon extract
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 Tbs. cake flour

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Spray 8-inch
round, deep, fluted nonstick cake pan with
nonstick cooking spray.

2. Place butter in mixing bowl, and beat in
sugar. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well
after each addition. Stir in lemon peel,
lemon zest and peach. Slowly add milk,
extracts and lemon juice.

3. Place crumbs in separate bowl, and stir
in sail baking powder, baking soda and
cake flour. Fold egg mixture into crumbs
until well combined. Pour batter into cake
pan, smoothing top.

4. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until center
of cake is firm. Remove from oven, and
cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove cake
from pan, and cool on cake rack.

PER SERVING: 270 CAL; 3G PROT; 12G TOTAL
FAT (6G SAT. FAT); 37G CARB; 70MG CHOL;
400MG SOD; 1G FIBER; 24G SUGARS

Peach-Blueberry Upside-Down
Cake

SERVES 8

Serve this treat with whipped cream.

4 Tbs. unsalted butter plus 1/2 stick
  softened butter
1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 tsp. almond extract
1 tsp. lemon extract
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup buttermilk
3 large peaches, peeled and sliced
1 cup blueberries, rinsed
1/2 cup thinly sliced almonds

1. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in large
ovenproof skillet over medium heat Add
brown sugar, and reduce heat to low. Let
sugar and butter cook for about 10
minutes, or until slightly caramelized.

3. Meanwhile, combine remaining butter
and sugar in mixing bowl, and beat until
creamy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
after each addition. Add extracts and lemon
zest. Beat in sail baking powder, baking
soda and flour, and stir in buttermilk.

4. Remove skillet from heal and place
peach slices, blueberries and almonds on
caramelized sugar mixture. Pour batter
over top, and place in oven.

5. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until top
is puffy and golden. Remove from oven,
invert, or slice in skillet and eat.

PER SERVING: 450 CAL; 7G PROT; 17G TOTAL
FAT (8G SAT. FAT); 68G CARB; 110MG CHOL;
480MG SOD; 3G FIBER; 46G SUGARS